Monday, January 12, 2015

Dawn Patrol in the Vicinity of Daystar

Same crew, different spot. Jimmy brought his short board and surfed Daystar. Charlie and I SUP surfed the break across the channel. A nice, mellow right that dumped you out into the channel. The swell was overhead at Daystar, a little smaller where I was at, and there was no wind. Caught a bunch (funny how the same frame comes with every wave... these were each from different waves) I did wipeout - and I don't know what it is, but my feet seem to have gotten 'heavier' - I don't remember hitting the reef like I am now back when I lived and surfed here in the late 90's.... or maybe the fact that I weigh 25 pounds more has got something to do with it... nah - my feet are denser. Great surf session!!!