Saturday, July 25, 2015
My Waves - 7/25/15
I caught a few good ones in between getting hammered. I mostly went left today to avoid the crowds (and the jackass shortboarder mouthing off like he was the next best surfer to Duke Kahanamoku), but there isn't a well defined channel on that side of the wave - that means a beating during the sets. The set waves were well overhead - super fun!!! I decided to wear a solar shirt to avoid getting fried. I hate swimming with a shirt on (flashbacks to dive school...), but I didn't get burned! I didn't get barreled in this wave - the bottom doesn't incline fast enough to drive the waves over, but I did escape a mauling at the end of the ride. If the waves were any bigger, I would have not been able to turn this board. The rails at the back half of the board are too thick to dig into the wave face - good thing I like this size wave ;) The gopro battery died after this wave. And then my leash popped with a necking failure (technical term thrown in here since I am an Engineer) shortly after that. I don't know what's up with leashes these days - I used to go a year and a half before snapping leashes. I am barely getting 4 months out of the leashes sold these days... Anyways - good session despite the small setbacks.