Monday, January 15, 2018

Surfing on Martin Luther King Jr Weekend

Sunday morning I took Marlon surfing.  He's been using La's board lately and having a blast cruising around (and catching waves easily - ahh the benefits of a good longboard!!!).  The big swell on the North Shore finally wrapped around to Kualaka'i (White Plains Beach).

We did the same this morning (Monday).  But the swell was less consistent (although a couple of sets were actually head high).  On the way back in, someone took up the whole beach -

I've definitely gotten lazy in my middle ages - I definitely prefer surfing my home break to driving all over the island like I used to - but the funny thing is I like surfing my home break better than the other spots.  Now to get that foil up and running....

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