Tuesday, June 18, 2019

Glassing the Top Deck of Marlon's Longboard

We also spent part of Father's Day getting the top deck laminated on Marlon's longboard.  Schedule wise, the bottom was 2 layers of 6oz, and the top was a 4oz patch with two 6oz layers on top.  This should allow him to knee paddle the board if he wants to without dinging the deck.

It's hard to spend time during the week (while Marlon is in his summer program) working on projects - but I'll try and grind the laps down and prep the board for a fill coat of epoxy tomorrow evening.  He wants a spray paint color scheme and I'll need Thursday and Friday to finish that if we're going to surf it by the weekend.

Foiling Over the Weekend - 15 and 16 June

The higher tide finally migrated to the late afternoon.  On Saturday evening the bump in the swell started to show, but the waves were packed in tightly.  I set up the Slingshot foil with the 24" mast.  Fun session with some longer rides.  With the longer mast, I moved the foil back another 1/2" in the track compared to the previous session with the 18" mast - tons of lift and still controllable.

Didn't hit the bottom - tide was at 1.5" while I was out.  With this foil, I'm noticing that you need to set the foil up to deliver more lift, and use your body weight to counter the extra umpf.

I can look at these shapes all day long and not get tired.

On Sunday (Father's Day) Marlon and I went out and the swell had dropped just a hair - or the tide was swollen (maybe both).  It was nearly +2.0' while we were out.  Anticipating the fuller tide, I rigged up the 29.5" (+3" plate adapter) Go Foil mast with the Iwa wing.  Super fun out in the waves and I got more the a few long rides.  Even carved through the flat inside section and picked up the reform (everything is relative).  

The Go Foil has a simpler shape - but it's chord is thick.  Translates to tons of lift - super fun to ride and really exhilarating with the mast height. I had a couple of rides where I felt the foil about the breech, but dumped more front foot weight on and recovered.  This is starting to become second nature - and mixing up which foils I'm using helps to make my riding more versatile.

This is getting to be so much fun that I don't even think about conventional surfing at all... Scary how this is taking over - but totally willing to make the full commitment!

Saturday, June 15, 2019

End of the Work Week Surf

This was a long week - I've been taking Marlon to a summer program he has and after I pick him up in the evenings, we've had to do battle with the other commuters on H1 West.  When we got home today, I did a quick turnaround and got to the beach by 6:30pm to get in an hour of foiling.

This afternoon saw the beginning of a new south swell hitting - but I brought the foil anyways (which I see as a divergence from surfing... I really only want to foil now).  After the last session, I've actually been looking forward to getting into some larger waves (where I would just begin to short board).  I've been dealing with the excess speed from the steeper takeoffs (that used to throw me off the board because of too much lift - not enough time and front foot weight to control the foil) by paddling at a 45 degree angle to the wave direction.  This has really helped and I'm getting longer rides by taking off further out.

There is so much potential in foiling and so much to learn - it's like getting to start all over again knowing all the fun and amazing things to come!

I still used the 18" mast with the Infinity 76 wing since the tide was ebbing down to 0.4' - didn't ground so all is good.  I moved the foil forward another 1/2" thinking the swell would be the same size as yesterday -  It was almost twice as big.

I ended up catching a bunch (including some of the bigger ones at an angle at takeoff).  I lost a few of the steeper ones (epic crash and burn), but I had three really long rides.  Awesome way to wash of the work week!

Getting Marlon's Board Closer to the Official Annoitment

We got the bottom glassed on Thursday evening.  I'll clean up the laps on Saturday and laminate the top.

Should have this done by the end of this weekend.

Thursday, June 13, 2019

Wednesday Evening Foiling - June 12

I went out for some foiling this evening.  The tide was going low - the time band I was out it was hovering around +0.5' - so I put the 18" mast on the Infinity 76.

I also felt that with the waves around waist high and the shorter mast (less ability to pump), I could use some extra lift so I moved the foil up in the tracks.

This was a pretty good setting for the conditions.  I only had one breach and several good rides.  The force seemed more balanced between both feet (kinda why I breached on that one wave - got too relaxed).  I felt good paddling for waves I would normally have used my longboard or SUP to catch before this setup.  I even caught a few green waves (unbroken) - as little as a month ago, I was a little leery about paddling for greenies - I felt like I couldn't control the extra lift that came with moving faster on a steeper takeoff.  Now it's just more fun to catch greenies that are ready to be ridden.  

Super fun session!

Tuesday, June 11, 2019

Foil (crunching) Sunday Afternoon

Just after I fixed the main wing, I take the Slingshot out to foiling and in between a couple of waves, I hear "crunch - crunch".  My old friend Jimmy was out shooting video with his drone but had to leave early.  I went it to say bye, and I took a look at the main wing to see what all the crunching was about.  "HOLY SH!T" - some front to back scratches, tip damage and a fairly deep gouge.  The tide was not even that low...

Oh well - a good session other than that.  Had a few long rides and no getting bucked.  I moved the foil forward 3/4" in the tracks to get more lift.  Next time I go out I may move it forward again to get even more lift - a front wing this big should be lift faster and sooner.  The waves were about the same as Saturday, but they were easier to catch.  The tide was at 0.9' - shouldn't have hit anything with the 24" mast...  oh well - I guess I needed more practice patching gouges in solid carbon fiber...

Sunday Fin Setting

Marlon and I set the fins in place on his longboard yesterday.

The side bites are in perfectly.

The center box had an issue - I forgot to use the plunge setting and as a result there were two excessive cuts.  If we weren't going to paint the finished board, I would probably try and fix these.  Oh well - we're painting the board so no issue.

Now I just have to find time to glass this board (uuuuugggggggghhhhhhhhhh).

Saturday, June 8, 2019

Opae Ula Again

I've been trying to set up this habitat for some opae ula (Hawaiian Alchialine Pond Shrimp) for quite some time now.  I finally got around to doing so -

Finished Shaping Marlon's Longboard

Small surf this morning - so we decided to use the time to finish shaping Marlon's longboard.  Used the planer to cut in the rail bands, and a surform to blend to top to the rails.

We broke out the dragon skin and sanding screens to dial in the rails, and then sanded the decks.  When we were done sanding, we broke out the random orbital sander and carved in the nose spoon.  We actually made it pretty deep, so Marlon should have the ability to park up front and eat a few ham sandwiches.  La bought me some Dapp's Lightweight and I closed up all the shaping mistakes.  THis thing is ready to glass (for tomorrow).

Friday, June 7, 2019

Front Wing Touch Up

These are the two front wings that I've been using the most.  And they had some scratches from touchdown while waiting for waves.  I swear there are three high spots in the bottom where I'm foiling and even after coming off the board to physically ensure I am in deep water, as soon as I hop back on the board I hear a 'crunch'.

Oh well - solid carbon fiber is pretty resilient - but I am also super OCD (though I am getting better).

Here are the wings after some corrective cosmetic attention.

Taking a Short Break By Shaping

Knowing Marlon is anxious to get another board in the water, we decided to skip surfing and foiling to get moving on his new longboard.

We felt most of the foiling should be done to the bottom - getting it as flat as possible to make it a super fast paddler.  I'll put a spoon in the nose so he can get 10 toes over (but later after the top is dialed in).

We used the surforms first - and Marlon was comfortable with using it.  But I switched to the planer because we had to remove about a 1/2" of material.  After a couple of hours, the bulk/rough shaping to the bottom is done.

Now the question is do we work on this all weekend and knock it out, or do we go surfing....

Sunday, June 2, 2019

Saturday and Sunday Surfing

Marlon and I hit the beach on Saturday evening.  I was using the 5'2" and the Go Foil Iwa (on the 29.5" mast).  If you are shopping for a foil - the Go Foils wings are buoyant and float - this is good for some reasons (it you ever lose the foil, weight, and paddling on non-choppy days) and bad for others (paddling on choppy days - the board/foil go wherever it wants and not where you want it).

I got a few really fun rides, but the water was really choppy.  That really didn't matter once up on foil, but while paddling for a wave it made all the difference.  Marlon found another ding on La's board (after we just finished fixing the rest of them) so he went in early.  I do like this foil and it has a different feeling than the Slingshot - a little livelier... but not sure if that is due to the wing, or the mast height, the difference in buoyancy, or all of the above.

Today, we went out again and I used the Slingshot Infinity 76 on the 24" mast.  I had the foil jammed to the back of the tracks on the 5'2".

The water was way choppier than yesterday.  Stronger trades and a really close period on the swell made for a lot of paddling.  The Slingshot setup does not float and is considerably heavier than the Go Foil.  I got several waves, had a few steeper takeoffs (a relative term) and even took a couple to the beach.  Wave choice is definitely a large part of successful surf foiling - pick the ones that aren't so vertical but still have enough energy to get you moving.  Whitewater mush is not a bad thing...

At first I though the foil might be too far back as I wasn't lifting easily.  Then on my third wave I had my feet further back and I unweighted my front foot a bit (contrary to everything I've been trying to unlearn from surfing) and not only was I up - I was able to pump through the flat section and continue on the reform.  I got a few more rides just like that, but called it quits (as my belly had gotten rubbed raw from the front foot pad, and we had an old friend with us at the beach so I didn't want to stay out too long).  So I have gotten to the point where I'm exerting active pitch control (unweight front foot to pitch up, weight front foot to pitch down - maintain once you're where you want to be).

I bribed Marlon to take pictures from the water.  He got the settings misaligned but I was able to get a few photos (although he missed my bigger waves ;)

Friday, May 31, 2019

Thursday and Friday Foiling

Despite the lower tide, I decided to keep up with foiling on the Iwa.  On Thursday, I set the foil as far back on the tracks as possible (on the 5'2").

The lift was more controllable and I managed to get some pretty long rides.  I did hit the bottom twice while paddling (first on the way out, second while I was getting out at the end of the session).  Damage was minimal and I just need to get over this.  The swell was not small so some of the takeoffs resulted in crashes and burnages.

This evening Marlon and I went out and the swell was just a tad smaller (but still not small).  Same setup as yesterday and I got nearly the same results - just better.  More control (lighten up on the front foot to lift and down pressure to steady out).  On a couple of takeoffs, I was going way too fast - foil was humming and I popped out the back.

I did get some longer rides, pumped through some flat spots and was able to correct some back setups - so today was definitely better than yesterday!  Progress however small is always a good thing.  Marlon was back on La's longboard.  I saw him on a few rides - I think he is missing the thruster setup ;)

Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Third Swell of the Summer - Memorial Day Weekend

Another large-ish swell moved in this weekend.  Marlon and I went out on Sunday evening and again on Monday morning.  Lots of people in the water trying to get some of this swell.  I brought out the Greedy Beaver both days - and Marlon used the Wavestorm.

For me the swell and the tide weren't in synch -  and there ended up being a fairly large flat spot where no one was catching any waves.  Seems like you either had to be way out, or way inside.  Yesterday the board was a little more squirrely under my feet - I had a few great drops and decent rides - but also got worked on a few.  Today felt better on the waves I was able to catch - Marlon pointed it out that the wind was down from Sunday evening - cleaner equals easier takeoffs.

Today I also finished repairing the delamination on La's board (which Marlon has been historically riding).  Here it is all waxed up and ready to ride!  Another project checked off the list.

I'll move on to shaping Marlon's knee-paddling, nose riding, helicopter takeoff longboard next (tall order, but I'll give it a swing).

Sunday, May 26, 2019

Kauai Bounce Trip

I had to scope out a project on Kauai this past Thursday.  Here are some pictures of one of my favorite places on this planet to just hang out.  Niihau and Lehua in the background of Majors Bay.

Pulled pork food truck turned brick and mortar (so ono!)

And I really wanted to bring these two back home - they wouldn't stop following me around.  Such a handsome couple!

I wish I had more time - would have gone fishing!

Saturday Evening Session - May 25

I brought the same setup from Thursday back out - Go Foil Iwa on the 29.5" (+3" Plate Adaptor) and the 5'2" Foilboard.

I dropped the foil backward in the boxes by a bunch (relatively speaking) - but the setup was actually harder to ride - or at least it seemed that way.

Thursday foil positioning - I recall thinking this was way too much lift.

Saturday - this didn't feel much lighter on the lift.  Either I had better foot placement on Thursday, or I am regressing???  When I head out again I'll jam it all the way back.

The swell forecasted to arrive did not seem to have materialized.  But because of the moon phase I had to ride the outside section (so as to not run aground).  I got a few rides in between the brutal flingings (I went down face first on one and definitely saw stars).

Marlon was practicing his helicopter takeoffs on the Wavestorm.  Fun session!

Saturday, May 25, 2019

Thursday Foiling - May 23, 2019

Leftover medium sized swell coming up from the Southern Hemisphere.  I decided to bring the Go Foil Iwa out.  With the plate adaptor, this rig is over 33" tall!!!  I was better than 60% up and riding - and the longer runs were way up.  I did breech a couple of times, but I'm chalking that up to having the foil set too far forward in the track.  I'll pull the foil back next time and see if that makes a difference.

The Go Foil seems easier to get up and stay up on foil compared to the Slingshot.  Whenever the tide is super full (+1.5'), I'll bring this rig out - otherwise I think I'll hit bottom while waiting in between sets.

I also was using the 5'2".  I think it's time to go shorter permanently.  I can sense how shorter length is easier to pump the foil and easier for front foot placement.