Busy day today - but Marlon and I hit the beach in the late afternoon to catch some of the bump up that is coming in to the south shore.
I had 5 rides up high and didn't breach. I tried turning a few times - more deliberate turns and not a drift over - and I fell - and one was hard. I actually haven't fallen this hard in a watersport for some time - humbling but makes you feel alive! I had the 5'2" and the Slingshot Infinity 76 out. The waves were actually almost too big to foil - almost.
Marlon brought out the Wavestorm and caught a bunch. I actually like surfing the evenings - less crowd and you get to hang around for the glass-off.