This setup was super fun today. I took it back a notch from the Wednesday so the lift was on demand (instead of demanding). I had several rides where I rode from the second break all the way to the shore break. I had two waves where I rode out the back of the wave and tried pumping (didn't get far, but at least I got headed in the right direction for recycling). Doesn't look like it from the picture - but the swell was chest high. The tide was another King at +2.2'
The swell was up, but the surprise was the period wasn't scrunched up like normal close storm waves. There was time to paddle out between sets and you could pick the wave you wanted. Marlon was hanging in the first break area in front of the MWR Board Shack. He caught several (as always).
The cons of today - I landed on the rear wing at the end of one wave. I've been lucky so far, but lately I've been getting bruised. I also touched down a bit - I'm thinking about trimming the excess volume from the rear rails and tail on my next boards.