Saturday, August 3, 2019

Saturday Evening Session - 3 August

The remnants of Hurricane Erick have been passing to the south of the islands.  Swell from the SE has been hitting the South Shore, and the winds have dropped a notch (although it is kinda onshore).  The report said the swell height was around chest - I thought about rigging the 5'2" and the Slingshot Gamma - but I still need to grind down the edge of the repair I just did on the 5'2", and it has been stinking hot in my garage lately so I just grabbed what I used last - the 5'6" and the Go Foil Iwa (24.5" mast + 3" track adaptor).

This setup was super fun today.  I took it back a notch from the Wednesday so the lift was on demand (instead of demanding).  I had several rides where I rode from the second break all the way to the shore break.  I had two waves where I rode out the back of the wave and tried pumping  (didn't get far, but at least I got headed in the right direction for recycling).  Doesn't look like it from the picture - but the swell was chest high.  The tide was another King at +2.2'

The swell was up, but the surprise was the period wasn't scrunched up like normal close storm waves.  There was time to paddle out between sets and you could pick the wave you wanted.  Marlon   was hanging in the first break area in front of the MWR Board Shack.  He caught several (as always).

The cons of today - I landed on the rear wing at the end of one wave.  I've been lucky so far, but lately I've been getting bruised.  I also touched down a bit - I'm thinking about trimming the excess volume from the rear rails and tail on my next boards.

Awesome session!

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