I went out from 2:00 to 4:30pm when the tide was high (at 1.4' - with the waves breaking so far out, the water was deep - no worrying about hitting bottom waiting for waves. The wind was pretty much non-existent, and the crowd was manageable. I kept getting drawn out to try and catch the big ones while they were green. I picked off a couple successfully - but ate it a several more. Pitching lips, bottoms dropping out and bad foot placement on takeoff - made for a humbling experience. I really didn't think it was going to be as big as it was so I left the CF1600 on - I should have bolted on the HS1550. At least I got to find the upper end of the CF1600 on the 5'2". I'll switch it out tomorrow (the swell is supposed to stick around until Tuesday - like I said earlier - a total gift this late in the year).
I did get some really long rides - speed runs along the wall, cutbacks (although large radiused) as the sections closed, and a few flirts with pitching sections - I LOVE FOILING!!! I should have stayed closer in and just picked up the reform - I would have been more successful - but then I wouldn't have had all those awesome wipeouts!
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