Marlon hit the surf early today - I wasn't feeling all that great so I passed on the dawn patrol. I did head out for an evening session and Marlon double dipped today.
The waves were consistently knee high, but if you waited, there were waist to chest high sets. The tide was a low high at 1.0'. But it was the wind that defined the day - really strong, but when you pulled in to the inside section, the wind was coming at an angle that helped open up the face. All you had to do was wait for it and you got a long speed run along a smooth wall.
I was a little worried I brought the wrong board out since the wind was up - 11' of Viking - but because you can move all over the board, I just walked forward when the risk of catching wind under the nose was there. I actually did get blown off the board a couple of times, but you take the good with the bad.
I did end up going right most of the waves - right into the wind. And the wind probably kept most people at home (or somewhere else) because the surf was super uncrowded.
What a surprise session!