The big south swell that is coming up from New Zealand arrived. It was pitching lip way outside.
The tide was super low at dawn, and dropping into the mid morning.
I opted to surf -
And I got in two sessions -
First was with the Album Twinzer Twinsman.
I caught a few of the bigger reforms on the middle break. There was a lot of water moving around - with the current dragging to the east. I launched from the single cabin and at one point was out towards Coves. I was lucky and my last wave I was able to take towards shore almost to Fenceline.
The twinzer was fun - especially when picking up the bigger ones, but with the amount of water moving the fins didn't feel loose. On the rides it felt a little tracky and not at all like a twin.
I came in a swapped to the J Splee Hammah Fish
For the given conditions, this board worked so well -
First wave had three top-bottom turn combos
And I had a few more like it. Pure fun!!!
The swell should peak this afternoon - and tomorrow will likely be manageable on Foil Drive outside.
PF:8/W:3/PW:60/FD:45/S:20
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