Saturday, April 7, 2012
Session with Lance and Jimmy. 0700 report time at "Lani's" (hey kids - the same place we went and saw the big green turtle).
Lance was gracious enough to bring the 6'5" Stretch Quad (Fletcher Four Fin) that I've had stashed at his house for more than a while now. I put in the Futures Scimitars and off we went.
I caught 4 good ones and a couple that shut down pretty quick.
My lower back held up much better than I thought it would although by the end, it was my triceps that I was worried about...
The power behind the waves up North - it was fun just duck diving through them. There are tools for the job, and nowhere is a shortboard more appropriate than here.
You can quickly forget how awesome an experience surfing a place like this - buried behind paperwork and deadlines, trying to keep up with all the requirements... but when you do have time to slow down and play with in the energy driving rotational water cycles, you just as quickly remember why this idyllic past time can dominate your life.
I may have successfully kicked the addiction (ask La - it was bad those first years when I was weening off daily surf sessions) and found other ways to occupy my thirsty mind (kitesurfing, standup paddling, fishing, aquariums, being with the kids and La - especially that one), but oh how good it is to bask in the energy of my old stomping grounds!!!