The swell was still pushing energy in this morning. From reading a bit more, this swell seems to be leftover Hector energy??? Maybe the back side of the storm... in any case - FUN WAVES on the dawn patrol!!!
I did bring out the Greedy Beaver this morning. I also changed out the Vector Futures for glass Eric Arakawas. The board completely changed for me with the new fins - drive and carve - so nice... Proof that simplifying things is often the better option - that or since I've been surfing this template for a very long time, it just works better for me.
I caught a bunch in the middle break in front of the MWR building side. This board is definitely not a standard, conventional shortboard. With it's wide nose, straight rails, wide hips and rounded pin tail, this is pretty much everything I love about a great longboard - just in a shorter package for days where you don't want to have the extra length. If I haven't said it before, I LOVE THIS BOARD!!!!
