Surf Report 10/15/2014 Part 2

The kids had some shore break action And by the end of the day, Marlon had ventured out into the realm of the unbroken wave. I think he is still intimidated by the drop, but I reassured him that that will quickly become the most exciting part of surfing (taking the drop and leaning into that first bottom turn of the wave - making torque and G's out of speed, gravity and positioning). The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step

Surf Report 10/15/2014 Part 1

We spent a long day at the beach yesterday - offshore breeze, cooler temperatures and a decent swell surely make it easier to spend that time at the beach. La took some pictures of me from the beach And at the same time I had the GoPro going At least I think that was the sequence. I missed a barrel on two waves. If the one above wasn't the one La took pictures of, then this one is: I did lose a fin - I think from not tightening the set screw down far enough and I did have my share of wipeouts. A very nice day in any case!