My Waves - 7/25/15

I caught a few good ones in between getting hammered. I mostly went left today to avoid the crowds (and the jackass shortboarder mouthing off like he was the next best surfer to Duke Kahanamoku), but there isn't a well defined channel on that side of the wave - that means a beating during the sets. The set waves were well overhead - super fun!!! I decided to wear a solar shirt to avoid getting fried. I hate swimming with a shirt on (flashbacks to dive school...), but I didn't get burned! I didn't get barreled in this wave - the bottom doesn't incline fast enough to drive the waves over, but I did escape a mauling at the end of the ride. If the waves were any bigger, I would have not been able to turn this board. The rails at the back half of the board are too thick to dig into the wave face - good thing I like this size wave ;) The gopro battery died after this wave. And then my leash popped with a necking failure (technical term thrown in here since I am an Engineer) shortly after that. I don't know what's up with leashes these days - I used to go a year and a half before snapping leashes. I am barely getting 4 months out of the leashes sold these days... Anyways - good session despite the small setbacks.

Charlie Surfing - 7/25/15

We have been blessed with another good sized, longer period swell from the Southern Hemisphere. We surfed at Hickam this morning and although it was crowded, we got some good ones. Here's CB cashing in his 'rhino' tag! I wasn't in position to take shots of his other rides - I seemed to be getting clobbered by the sets today.

SUPSquatch Siting

These guys were out having some fun this morning. From these pictures you can see how big the swell was (big and fun, not big and scary). You never know what you'll run into while paddling around. Not sure if I want to wipeout with three other guys bouncing around. I heard one guy ask if everyone was alright - because he had bumped heads with one of them. Still - watching guys takeoff on these hugemungous boards is fun to watch!

Friday Morning Dawn Patrol at Hickam

That Southern Hemi swell is still here so I figured before I run errand and get some work done, I should generate some stoke. After this I did my laundry. These waves were infinitely more fun than doing laundry.

Father's Day Swell

I caught my share of waves from this swell over at Hickam. Nice ride and a .... wait for it ..... wipeout!!!! Well overhead on the sets - you can see the rider on the wave is under the lip. More rides Very satisfying session (despite the multiple wipeouts and tripped up bottom turns).