Third Swell of the Summer - Memorial Day Weekend

Another large-ish swell moved in this weekend.  Marlon and I went out on Sunday evening and again on Monday morning.  Lots of people in the water trying to get some of this swell.  I brought out the Greedy Beaver both days - and Marlon used the Wavestorm.

For me the swell and the tide weren't in synch -  and there ended up being a fairly large flat spot where no one was catching any waves.  Seems like you either had to be way out, or way inside.  Yesterday the board was a little more squirrely under my feet - I had a few great drops and decent rides - but also got worked on a few.  Today felt better on the waves I was able to catch - Marlon pointed it out that the wind was down from Sunday evening - cleaner equals easier takeoffs.

Today I also finished repairing the delamination on La's board (which Marlon has been historically riding).  Here it is all waxed up and ready to ride!  Another project checked off the list.

I'll move on to shaping Marlon's knee-paddling, nose riding, helicopter takeoff longboard next (tall order, but I'll give it a swing).

Mother's Day 2019 Swell

The first big south swell of the year hit on Mother's Day.  It was overhead on the sets and the direction was perpendicular to the beach at White Plains (so it was closing out the normal outer break).

Marlon caught some good ones and got pounded a few times.  I caught four good ones (but the rides weren't too long because of the closeouts).

I did not bring the foil because I want to mix things up (and I knew the swell had hit) - always a good time on the Greedy Beaver!

Thursday Evening Surf - 5/9/2019

We hit the surf again this afternoon because we've got an event to attend tomorrow night.  The swell picked up a bit, but the really high tide made it difficult to pick up a lot of waves on the foil.  Marlon on the other hand was having a blast!

I caught some good ones, but I felt off today (I didn't get much sleep last night).  I was batting 50 again.  It was still good to get in the water!

Latest Foiling - Sunday 5/5/19 and Wednesday 5/8/19

I think these last two sessions marked another milestone for me.  This past Sunday, I was going to setup the Gamma front wing.  I thought I read somewhere that the surf was going to be bigger and I wanted to test out a smaller wing.

Well I checked out the report one last time before going out and decided to use the old reliable (and boy was I glad that I did).  I ended up catching five waves on a short evening session (full tide at +1.9).  Infinity 76 front wing on the 61cm mast - everything was perfect!  Long rides traveling down the line on a wave that I would have been struggling on if I had the TJ Everyday under foot. 5 of 5 - batted 100%!

Then there was this afternoon.  Same setup, with the foil moved forward just a hair of center.  Today was the first time I really did not pay attention to my foot position - and weighting back and front was more intuitive.  I caught seven and only had one bad ride (and three outside all the way to the beach rides).  On the bad rides I knew something was off just by the feedback the board and foil were giving and instead of crashing, I just rounded up hard and slipped into the wave (instead of getting thrown around like during the past several months).  Fat kitty was hanging around, and so was the peacock (who is the real White Plains mascot???)

Marlon had the Wavestorm out again and was trying helicopter takeoffs (same as last Sunday also).  We could only spend an hour at the beach today but it was so worth it!  Today was a great foiling day!!!

Tuesday Errands - April 30

Marlon and I hit the surf again - this time I brought the foil.  Marlon brought the Wavestorm.  The swell was a hair smaller, but it was still challenging on the foil.  I caught some good lengthy rides - and I eat it on some wipeouts.  I am getting to the point where I know if I'm going to fly or if I'm going down in a blaze of glory - I can't remember when I was so stoked to see smaller, barely breaking waves...

Marlon caught a bunch - then he came over and was acting goofy - trying to blow bubble rings, accusing me of being a slow paddler, and just giggling for no reason.  I guess he likes surfing!

I am going to try out the smaller front wings - I'm starting to think the Slingshot FSurf Infinity 76 may be too big to catch fresh white water, or the steeper pitching waves (since I instantly breach after getting up despite the forward weight).

These pictures above are actually in reverse order...

After the short surf session, we hit Lowe's to buy more wood for the deck project.  Here's the truck pulling errand and surfmobile duty.

Duped - April 29

I thought the swell from yesterday (which was pretty darn good) was supposed to get bigger today.  I figured I should bring the Greedy Beaver.  Well - I got duped - it was smaller, choppier and less consistent than yesterday.  I should have brought the foil.  I did get some fun rides on the beaver - but the swell and the tide were not complimenting each other.

Marlon brought the Wavestorm and he was happy with that choice.

I don't want to give the impression that I'm complaining - any day spent in the water is a good one!  It's just I really really really don't like it when I bring equipment that is less than ideal ;)

Friday Evening - April 26

Near repeat of Thursday - swell was the same but the wind was light and on shore.  I used the short mast again and I moved the foil back a notch.  That cut the breaching in half (but still had some - I'm crediting those with not enough front foot pressure - too much surfer in me...).  I took a couple of waves from the mid lineup all the way to the shoreline (with some margin for not grounding) so I would call today a move forward day for sure.

Marlon was rocking the Wavestorm again - he's been knee paddling it so when I glass his board, I'll reinforce the deck area so he can knee paddle that board (I really need to spend some time on that project).

And the resident peacock was large and in charge - it let me take a few pictures before running off to address another part of its territorial obligations.

Thursday Evening Surfing/Foiling - 25 April

Marlon and I went surfing this evening - swell was waist to shoulder high and pretty consistent.  The tide was supposed to be +0.7' so I opted for an 18" mast on the Slingshot to avoid any issues.  I had set up the foil to just forward of center on the 5'6" - I was able to foil on every wave I paddled for, but on about half, I would lighten up on my front foot pressure while trimming and I'd breach.  I caught 10 in the hour and a half we were out and as usual I was up on longer rides on half.

I'll pull the foil back a notch and I should be good with the front foot pressure I'm applying, and hopefully get to the point where most waves will be long rides.

Marlon had the Wavestorm out again and he was having fun.

I'll try to go back out again tomorrow - the current swell is supposed to be similar to today.  The days are starting to get longer now so after work sessions will get longer!!!

Foiling/Surfing Easter Sunday - April 21

This weekend La and I got a lot of work done on our backyard project.  Yesterday I got the crossbeams cut for the deck, then we went to Geobunga and bought a bunch of paver stones, and we dug up the middle section of the yard to prepare it for the rock/pebble installation.  Today we got a bunch of sand bags to settle in the landscaping rocks and we pretty much took a huge leap forward in getting this project done.  I'll post pictures of the project - we've got about a 1/4 of the middle section to cover up yet (ran out of weed barrier).  This is relevant for two reasons - first we hung up an old Laser sail that La had laying around for material for bags.

When this deck gets finished, I'll have a place to do foil and board maintenance - I can't wait (but it'll be after this coming payday - need to buy the planks and the screw gun).

Second was after getting all sweaty and nasty, I took Marlon out for another late afternoon surf.  We brought out the same gear as yesterday, but the swell dropped a notch in size (which was fine by me on the foil).

We were out for only an hour - I caught several but two of them were really long and I was definitely turning and riding up and down the bump.  Wave selection is everything - pick the right wave that isn't going to give you too steep a drop , but is still just about to break and the ride will be long and super fun.  Pick the wave that does have that steep drop and keeping the foil from breaching will be your only priority (which you'll likely to fail since you are moving too fast).  There were a few other foilers out at the break - one was recycling two or even three waves - looked like he was on an Iwa and a cut down Firewire Sweet or Baked Potato (whichever has the least tail rocker because there wasn't any on his board).   Marlon was catching a bunch - don't underestimate those Wavestorms!  Great weekend!!!

Noe Asked to Go Surfing

Which rarely happens... she took out the Wavestorm (since Marlon has been using the board Charlie Bisgard gave him). She totally chills out when surfing - knee paddle here, lounge around there - then she takes her time popping up... I followed her on a couple of waves to get some pictures. I can't say no when my kids ask me to take them surfing!

Dawn Patrolling the Short Weekend

I had class yesterday, so besides the Hawaii Ocean Expo, it was all work and no play. To make up for it, Marlon and I went on a dawn patrol this morning. He waxes boards well - he had a good teacher ;) He definitely has the bug - gets out on the water faster than a blink of the eye. And he likes drops!!! It makes me happy that Marlon likes surfing!!!

Marlon's First Surf at Pop's

Marlon and I picked up my old friend Nick in Waikiki and headed out to grab some morning surf. We were originally going to surf Cliffs over at Diamondhead, but when we got there the wind was nuking. We turned around, packed up and went over to Pop's. Side-offshore winds and a fun sized swell made for a great session. Nice swell for Marlon to try Pop's for the first time!!! Nick was having fun - You couldn't have asked for a better set of conditions - ahhhhhh, life in the waters of Hawaii...