Showing posts with label Chun's Reef. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chun's Reef. Show all posts

Monday, December 14, 2020

Dawn Patrol - 12/13/20

Hit the dawn patrol with Lance, Jimmy and Marlon.  It was supposed to be just overhead, so I brought the Dually.  Jimmy brought his Astro Pop.  Lance brought his 8'6" SUP.  And Marlon brought his longboard.  We paddled out at Chun's.



Well - it wasn't just overhead.  The swell that was supposed to show later in the afternoon arrived 30 minutes after we paddled out.  I saw Lance catch one that ended up being 2.5X overhead (would have made an incredible picture, but I didn't have a camera).


This picture was from early in the session.  That's Jimmy behind Marlon and me behind Jimmy.  This wave was an overhead gem - then almost every wave after was twice its height.  Super steep takeoffs.  Marlon got picked up by one and he got ran through the heavy duty cycle.  His leash broke off and I paddled in to get a hold of his board.  This was his first working over.  We called it after this.  I couldn't have taken off on any of these bombers anyways (might need to shape a 7.0'+...).

On the way back, passing Lani's it actually looked like it was fun sized (just overhead).  Not sure if it was a lull we were looking at, but kept trucking.  Marlon did go out later in the day to WPB to regain his confidence.

Saturday, April 18, 2020

Dawn Patrol - 4/18/2020

Marlon and I hit a dawn patrol with Jimmy - Chun's Reef.  This was Marlon's first trip to unsheltered North Shore energy.  And since he had his longboard, he was out and riding before I even got to the lineup.  His first wave was a really good one, as were most of his other ones.  Head high or slightly bigger on most.  I was totally stoked for him!!!


I brought the Pigfish out and it took a few waves to get synchronized with it.  I did have three longer waves with it and the fish side (my toe side, also the starboard side) really wants to fly.  On my longest wave I was able to outrun a plunging section to get out to clean face and wrenched an off the top turn - there is some huge potential with this board.


It was great surfing with Jimmy again!  I used to dawn patrol year after year with this guy 20+ years ago!!!  Some things never change - great times!