Got Lots of Work on the Boards Done and an Evening Session - 4/20/2020

I didn't take pictures this morning, but I placed a patch on the pigfish, got the 5'2" finbox area smoothed out, and filled the voids on Marlon's finboxes.  After about 3 hours the epoxy had hardened and I set out to grind down yesterday's and today's work.  So I pretty much finished the work required on the pigfish and the 5'2" and I can rotate those back into service.  And I'll turn over the last sanding to Marlon for his board.  He did say he wants to paint it before placing clear coat on it - it's all his now. 

The afternoon snuck up on me and I asked La if she would drop Marlon and I off at the beach.  The tide was sitting at around 1.4'.  There was an onshore breeze (since the trades have backed off - this was afternoon convection).  And the waves were stomach high and fairly consistent.  Every 20 minutes or so a chest high set would pull through.  For a Monday afternoon, there were a bunch of people in the water.  I got some long rides - negotiate the takeoff, line up the section that had the best potential for running.  I did have two inexplicable breaches - I was just cruising along and splat - just like that.  My last wave was a long runner  but I wrenched out two tight back to back turns right before the shore landing - nice feeling.  I think I could have done better on the Iwa today - I could have used the extra lift in the flat sections (or at least it would have been a good time to figure out the differences between the HA wing and the low speed lift wing.  I've been using the GL180 for several sessions now.  I probably should mix things up again.

Marlon was practicing his helicopter takeoffs.  He said he landed a few of them, and even rode one wave with the board parallel to the beach.

La had talked to a few people when she first got back to the parking area.  They said they had seen the police giving out parking tickets again around 5:15pm, so they only get dropped off now (same as Marlon and I).  Nice session!

Evening Session - 4/13/2020

La was kind enough to drop Marlon and me off at the surf spot again.  The waves were supposed to be 1-2', but to me they were more like 1'.  When the sets did come through they were thigh high - but that seemed like once every 20 minutes or so.  The tide was a rising high - but while we were out it was 0.5' to 1.0'.  I had to watch out for the bottom and flipped the foil up on the paddle back outs just to keep my sanity.  The wind was onshore, but it wasn't too bad at all.  I had the same setup as the past several sessions - GL180 on the 24.5"+3" mast and the 4'10" foil board.

I had over ten rides that just went on and on.  I caught a few green waves on the second shelf out towards the left, and the rest were waves that had broken already (with a foil it really doesn't matter if its all white water).  I rode them until they stood up again on the inside where I'd do a rebound turn and then kick out (because it would get shallow).  I did have one breach - kinda weird as I haven't breached on a straight run in a while.

Marlon caught a bunch - but would fade pretty fast.  He said he had to work for the waves - I agree, it seemed like less energy than the last time we went out on Saturday.  I still had a sense of anxiety think the cops would be out there ticketing - I'm be glad when the virus has moved on.

Template Transfer and Cutting Out the Board

Inside every blank is a board waiting to emerge.  Here's this board starting the journey.  This stubby with Duo fin setup (plus a center box for single fin outings) should be really fun.

I took stock of how much blank there was in relation to the template.  I went ahead and extended the template on the board by about 3" (since there was room - I need all the help I can get).

This 5'10" fish blank is thick - the jigsaw with a normal blade was not long enough to get through it.  Might as well get started on this - I don't think the COVID-19 restrictions are going to get lifted anytime soon.

Evening Surf - 4/11/2020

It has been a week since we've been in the water - so we ask La to drop us off at Pine Trees (surfing and being in the water is legal - but I don't think anyone knows what else is).  The swell was minimal, but about waist high on the sets (which would come along every 10 minutes or so).  The wind was coming from the west, but it was not chopping up the surface.  Lastly the tide was really high at +1.9'.

I caught several - really long ones, and I had to abort on some because of bad food positioning.  Marlon was catching almost everything he paddled for - but the energy would fade relatively quickly after the takeoff.

This was probably the low end of this foil (GL180, also had the 4'10" out) - the swell should be up a little more on Sunday (when I am writing this).

Evening Session - 4/5/2020

Tried a new spot - super fun!

Turtles were everywhere - lots of limu growing on this side.

If there is one good thing about this pandemic, it is that it is forcing Marlon and I to try out different spots.  I'm game as long as I don't get parking tickets...

Morning Surf - 4/4/2020

La dropped Marlon and I off at the beach yesterday morning to avoid getting another parking ticket (HPD was out in force - 5 cars with flashing blue lights - would have gotten another one for sure).

I brought the same setup out - but everything seemed "off".  For one thing I ended up dragging my right big toe several times across my board - weird.  Then I'd putter out of lift after the takeoff.  I did get some good rides, but there was definitely less energy in the waves.  This might be a limitation of the front wing (GL180).

If I go again in the near future, I may use the Iwa, or switch back to the Armstrong.  If I can keep the nose down on the bigger takeoffs, then the added benefit of the extra lift throughout the rest of the ride makes it worth the potential blowups.  I do like this GL180, just need to keep figuring out the best conditions for it.

Seemed like Marlon was picking up every wave that came his way.  He even commented that he thinks he likes this wave better than White Plains.  I definitely like the deeper depth - we were out on a dropping high but it was sub 0.5'.  The wind was there but it didn't mess with the quality.  Lastly, the swell was steady at waist or less.  A fun day - but it's not cool to see all the parking tickets being given out for parking at a C&C park when you are not parked "inside" the park because the gate is locked.

Evening Surf and a Parking Ticket - 4/3/2020

End of the week - tried to get a session in after work.  After Marlon and I were in the water, I could see several policemen driving back and forth along the road.  Turns out they were clearing the beach of people sitting or congregating (activities which is currently not allowed because of COVID-19), but they were also ticketing cars for being parked outside of a city park.  We got one and it only said "Governor State of Emergency".

Anyways - I brought the 4'10" with the same GL180/24.5"+3" Track Adaptor.  I got several long rides and a few with rebound turns of rising sections.  Marlon had tons of rides and smiles.  I'm thinking I'm going to have to find another surf spot soon as this place is getting too much heat.

Lock Down

And here it is -

I checked on the status of the beach this morning and found the gate locked.  Good thing I'm shaping and glassing me some boards!!!  Gotta be productive with what little time we have.