Evening Session - 2/7/2025

Low tide - small waves - some wind (enough to chop up the surface a bit) - conditions to break out a longboard

But not just any longboard - The Viking!

And since I was bring the Viking, I went ahead and changed out the fin to this Kohola tubercle based fin.  It's a lot more raked than I've been using and with the tubercles not arranged in a pattern, this definitely provided a different experience.

Honestly with the waves as small as they were, it was hard to notice any difference.  It did feel less draggy and maybe it was easier to turn the board - but I'll need more time to properly evaluate it.

Looking at the picture above, I think I could at least move the fin a notch more forward to get a looser feel out of it (again, it wasn't bad - just need to mess with it and see if changes make things better).

I got plenty of rides - nice way to wash off the work week!!!

W:9/FD:22/PW:1/S:1

Veteran's Day 2024

On this Veteran's Day, I just wanted to take it easy with La and Marlon.

First up was a dawn patrol with Marlon and longboards!  Although if I knew what the surf was going to be like, I think I would have brought the Sweet Potato.

Marlon brought his recently made longboard and I brought the Viking.

The surf was fun - and all the regular foilers were looking at me funny (like what are you doing on a surfboard???).  I caught several fun ones and didn't want to get too tired (long, fun day ahead).

W:139/PW:2/FD:80/F:5/S:20

Next up was errands.

I fixed our gutters on the side of the house I couldn't previously reach (you'll have to ask me about this in person if you are interested).  Then I got the last coat of epoxy onto the board Greg asked me to fix.  Then I cleaned up the garage a bit - and then we headed out.

We hit some stops and had to fight through some traffic, but ended up at the North Shore.  We got some new threads at Xcel (mahalo for the discount!!!), and then ended up at the new Patagonia shop!

Pretty cool shop!  They had some pretty cool imagery up on the walls - one was Moona Whyte kitesurfing a sizeable barrel at what looked like Teahupo'o

Which reminded me I used to do stuff like that - and that subsequently made me dig out some equipment (and get mentally prepared to do it again).  I really haven't had the desire to kitesurf because you can't do it near where I live (have to drive to Kailua or Mokuleia).

Maybe it'll be fine to take a little drive....

And lastly, Greg came over to pick up the board I repaired for his daughters.

Fun, relaxing day!!!  If you are a veteran - I hope you had a good one!

Evening Session - 12/28/2023

I took a nap when I got home from work.  When I woke up, Marlon and I headed to the beach.

The surf was even smaller than yesterday... Surfline had today at 4kJ.

I brought the Viking again and caught my share.  The Viking is definitely a session saver.

Marlon brought Jackie and used his new Velzy fin (he likes it).

Derek, Eddy and Norm were out on wings.  But by the time I got out there the wind was already flukey.

Norm said he had 40 minutes of good wind.  Derek was coming in as I was going out - he said earlier was fun.

W:126/F:109/S:60

Evening Session - 12/27/2023

The surf was really small today.

I decided to bring out the Viking -

This board can catch and ride anything - including tiny stuff.

Surfline was calling the surf 3 kJ - but I had some really fun rides!  Sticking to the pocket, riding the tail of this board and feeling like I was riding a much smaller board.  If I had been surfing one of the shorter boards I've been using this season, I don't think I would have been able to get in - didn't even cross my mind with the Viking.

Tomorrow the waves are supposed to be twice as big!

W:126/F:109/S:59

Dawn Patrol - 5/13/2023

Negative low tide this morning.  There was some light wind blowing - just enough to put texture on the water, but not much more than that.  And the swell was on when it was on, with some lulls.

I brought Kalani's SUP so I could give it back to him.  I also brought No.31 and the Progression 170 - but looking at the shallow water depth, I opted for the Viking.

Kalani and Dennis had their Foil Drive setups (Kalani's inaugural run).  Dennis has got this wired - takes off on waves that barely have any carry, and with the setup he has he can pump back out also.

Caught several from the outside and rode them pretty much all the way in.  Then had to paddle all the way back out.  Normally one would look at a board like the Viking and think this is way easier to paddle than a shortboard and that it is the EASY button.  In my experience, the Viking forces me to expend a lot more energy than if I was surfing a shortboard or the TJ Everyday - this is primarily because I do a ton more long distance paddling and I try and catch waves from the far outside where they are still lumps.  I ended up going home to help La at the yard sale in our neighborhood and after I took a really deep nap - because of all the paddling I did.

Good session!!!

W:43/F:35/S:28

Dawn Patrol - 4/8/2023

On the dawn patrol this morning, I brought out the Viking and loved every second of the session.

I caught multiple waves from outside Cabins all the way to the beach.  

Tim brought out his foil and was grabbing some good rides.

I'll likely foil tomorrow morning.

W:32/F:20/S:23

Dawn Patrol - 3/19/2023

Another micro wave day.

I used the Viking again.  The crowd was definitely thicker today - but with that board I can catch ripples.

Kalani was out on his foil.  Tim brought his longboard out.

I caught my fill and headed home.

The Viking is truly a session saver.

W:28/F:16/S:17

Evening Session - 3/17/2023

Friday evening session to wash off the work week.  I checked the report and knew it was going to be tiny - so I brought the Mightly Viking!!!

This board catches ripples and makes them great fun to surf.  I ended up with more than a couple of handfuls of waves.

Kalani and Roland brought out their foils - they had a harder time with the lower tide and microwaves.

Looks like a bit of a spell coming up where we'll have micro waves...

W:28/F:16/S:16

Evening Session - 3/13/2023

Light winds, low tide and waist high swell yesterday evening!  

Marlon came with and we both longboarded.

I brought the Viking and was catching the rollers from way outside (I love that board!!!).  I caught plenty of fun waves.  Riding this board from the tail is so dynamic!!!  I try and just park in the pocket and glide (all the way in, every time - this is probably one of the better workout boards I have because I end up paddlign so much).

But Roland stole the show!!!  He's changed up his rear stabilizer shimming (going from 2.5 degrees to just about 0) and now he is literally flying!

I just don't like foiling on lower tides...

W:28/F:16/S:14

Evening Session - 2/15/2023

Marlon and I hit WPB yesterday afternoon.  The waves were tiny. but we both needed to break the surf fast.

The wind was side onshore, so there was some texture to the tiny waves.

I brought the Viking.  I can catch anything with this board.  I caught five good ones and called it.  

Marlon had plenty on his trusty blue longboard.

I was a little out of paddling shape considering the amount of winging I've been doing for the last week.  There is some funky weather coming - so it's going to be a day to day call on what goes on.

W:16/F:7/S:12

Evening Session - 1/29/2023

It was raining this morning and the winds did not shift away from straight north - so I figured I'd just sleep in (or do some internet research).  The wind was more than strong enough to wing, but I am not a fan of winging in offshore winds.

Noe had a performance today so we went into Manoa to support her.  On the way back I stopped into HIC Ala Moana and grabbed a 2mm thermal wetsuit top.  We got back home with plenty of sunlight left, so I went to the beach to test the new long sleeve wetsuit top.

I brought the Viking having low expectations of the wave energy coming in.

The wetsuit top worked great - nice and snug, not too tight on the shoulders so I can paddle well, and a cool key pocket.  I was toasty warm the whole time (68F air temp, 76F water temp).  We've got a several weeks worth of cool mornings and north winds, so this top will see a lot of use.

I caught five really fun waves - the Viking can catch anything and stalling, cranking turns, and trimming are so much fun on this board.  This board is definitely a session saver.

It is going to be pretty small for the next couple of days.  The wind is also forecasted to die back as this front passes over us.  I have a board repair I have to get done for Jim... I might be doing some board surgery while the small conditions are present.

W:6/F:6/S:9

Dawn Patrol - 1/16/2023

 Happy Birthday Dr Martin Luther King Jr!!!  The world is a better place because of the work you did and continue to inspire.

Marlon and I pulled a dawn patrol.  There were waves!  Head high on the outside (in the middle of January!!!).  The wind was pretty much calm and the tide was dropping to a low of 0.7'

Because of the tide and the frustrations I had yesterday (with catching waves and the crowd), I took out the Viking.

And true to form, the Viking delivered.  We had about an hour of surf time before we had to head back so I could bring the truck in for maintenance.  An hour was all I needed -

I caught a handful of waves - but each was full of stalls, huge carves and long runs.

I am really happy with my current quiver of boards.  Each is really fun in the conditions they were built for - but a few are good across a huge range.  The Viking and the Everyday are especially capable of generating stoke from nothing waves or harnessing energy from bigger days.

Marlon and Kaylani were out also - but I was catching more waves.

I can do this all day and not get bored!

Super fun session this morning!!!

W:2/F:4/S:7

Evening Session - 1/4/2023

We hit the beach this afternoon after an eye doctor appointment (for La and myself) and a Costco run.  We actually hit the beach so we could take our annual family picture (just a few days late, but thats ok).  Surfing was just an added benefit.

I had heard the surf was coming down, so I brought the Viking.

I caught three really long ones from the outside.  This board is 11 feet of pure magic!  I walk all over the board to trim, turn, and glide.

The surf was definitely down, but still ridable.  I think this is probably the level that it will be at for the next few days.  With no wind in the foreseeable forecast and low tide predominating the afternoons, it looks like this will be a surf dominated first few months of the year.

W:0/F:0/S:5

Dawn Patrol - 1/1/2023

Special dawn patrol this morning - First Session of 2023!!!

I love this guy!!!

And I love this board - catches anything and when you step back to the tail, it surfs like a much shorter board.  I caught plenty of fun ones - and well before everyone else could.  But as the crowd got thicker, I went over to the cottages and had my own uncrowded waves.

The wind forecast is pretty dismal - but that's ok as long as the surf keeps coming!!!  With a new year comes hope that we can all find peace and our place in the universe - may 2023 be a great year for us all!

W:0/F:0/S:1

Evening Session - 12/21/2022

Marlon and I did an evening surf session yesterday.  Waves were waist high, the tide was low and the wind was still coming in from the west (but not strong enough to wing).

I opted for the Viking to negate any small surf issues (and kill the crowd factor).  For a board this long, you'd think it is just for going straight - but that is quite the contrary.  If there is some height to a wave and it is standing up, I love to move to the back of the board - the thinned out profile of the back rail really bites into the wave and (besides the extra swing weight) this board surfs way shorter than it is.  That coupled with its ability to paddle into bumps well before they are breaking waves makes this board magic!

I have really grown to like the True Ames Greenough High Speed Volan fin on this board.  It wasn't instant affinity like the Futures Randy Rarrick Black Tip fin I have on the TJ Everyday, but more a gradual appreciation for what this fin can do.

The monk seal was back - but had moved over to the beach in front of the MWR rental shack.

There were still some good sized waves coming in from the wind event if you were patient.  I caught multiple fun rides.  Kalani was out on his foil.  I saw him catch a few triples.  Roland was out also, but he was under the weather (and probably should rest to shake the bug that he has).

La was using the truck this evening so we took the other surf mobile out.  Fun session!

W:127/F:99/S:43

Evening Session - 10/18/2022

Marlon and I hit WPB after I got home from work this afternoon.  The forecast seemed like the waves would be on the smaller side, and the tide was going to be on the lower side - so I took the Viking.  

I also wanted to try out this True Ames Greenough Speed fin.

Fun fin, fun waves (but definitely on the smaller side) and I even got to ride a few alongside Marlon (also on his longboard).

I ended up talking with Eli and Roland about wings and foils and the upcoming forecast - what else would we be talking about???

W:97/F:88/S:33

Dawn Patrol - 10/1/2022

Dawn patrolled this morning.  Waves were small but ridable - until the long lull, and the crowd descended.  The Viking was the board of choice again - and it did an excellent job of cutting through the crowd, and getting into waves super early.

Marlon used his longboard, after fixing his dings.  He used the Halo sidebites and the hatchet center fin  and got great results.

Tomorrow I think I'll jump back on the foil.

W:95/F:81/S:27