Dawn Patrol - 5/5/2024

Noe had a concert today so I opted to get in a Foil Drive dawn patrol.

There was surf, and the wind was up - so it didn't look so good.  It looks so not good that Marlon opted out.

It was also a super low tide... made for a long paddle out.

I brought the same setup as last time (at Hickam) - Spitfire 960/Skinny 365 on the 85cm Project Cedrus mast.  The performance I got last time was not a fluke - this shit surfs!!!

The conditions were better than they looked - but the waves were a little hard to catch.  Once you were on them, it was awesome.

Got some long rides.  Also got some rides on slightly overhead peaks.  And I got to shoot from one side of a breaker over to the other side and back again.

17 waves by my count.  I know some of the fainter readings were the botched takeoffs I had when the chop was enough to throw my balance off.

When I was back on the beach, Marvin was headed to the launch.  I told him it was pretty choppy with the wind.

Even with all the chop, I had so many swooping turns and bouncy cutbacks - totally awesome rides!!!

W:57/FD:29/F:4/S:9

Blustery Evening Surf - 3/7/2020

Marlon hit the surf early today - I wasn't feeling all that great so I passed on the dawn patrol.  I did head out for an evening session and Marlon double dipped today.

The waves were consistently knee high, but if you waited, there were waist to chest high sets.  The tide was a low high at 1.0'.  But it was the wind that defined the day - really strong, but when you pulled in to the inside section, the wind was coming at an angle that helped open up the face.  All you had to do was wait for it and you got a long speed run along a smooth wall.

I was a little worried I brought the wrong board out since the wind was up - 11' of Viking - but because you can move all over the board, I just walked forward when the risk of catching wind under the nose was there.  I actually did get blown off the board a couple of times, but you take the good with the bad.

I did end up going right most of the waves - right into the wind.  And the wind probably kept most people at home (or somewhere else) because the surf was super uncrowded.

What a surprise session!