Evening Session- 1/10/21

Marlon and I did a double take yesterday - snuck in an evening session!!!  I changed up the board selection on this second run - I brought out the TJ Everyday!!!  The conditions were actually really fun - low tide (like real low - standup far out and it was waist high), belly sized swell and light winds.

We both got several really fun waves.  We stuck around long enough to watch the sun set - it was one of the most brilliant green flashes I've ever seen (too bad I didn't bring a Go Pro).

I love this board and the fin setup I have in it now - so responsive and fast.  With the amount of foiling I've been doing lately, I've forgotten just how much fun longboarding (and surfing shortboards in the right conditions) really is.

Shrinking Swell - 1/24/2020

Marlon and I hit it again - the swell is definitely dying back - smaller and less consistent, but still super fun!  I brought the 5'2" and the Go Foil Iwa - this combo is so much fun!!!  There was zero wind and the tide was going down from a small high of 0.7'.  I'm glad I got the front wing collars on the 24.5" and the 29.5" masts synchronized (so the wings are interchangeable) - the Iwa on a 24.5" (+3" for the track mount adaptor) is just so much fun to ride.

Marlon and I were using the same GoPro - I think I did a better job ;)

And there was yet another Green Flash sunset (fourth one I've seen this week)

Another awesome session!

Repeat of Yesterday (But Better) - 1/23/2020

Marlon and I went back out today - the surf was a hair more consistent, just slightly smaller, but there was no wind so the waves were super glassy.  There were no clouds on the horizon - so I got the see the green flash for the third session in a row!

As far as the rides went, the Go Foil Iwa on the 5'2" was perfect for today.  I had several really long rides - one where I got a three part infinity turn.  I also had one where after a long ride, I was able to pump back out and just missed a 2 for 1 .  The trick is to come off the wave you are riding with as much speed as you can - then on the way out you need to get into a rhythm to sustain flight.  I'm going to score a 2 for 1 soon - I can feel it! 

On the last wave, I got greedy and was pumping in (so I wouldn't have to paddle), but I hit bottom hard (and went flying off the board).  I hit on the rear wing.  I already sanded it and got a coat of paint on - and since I was using sandpaper, I even put the 45 degree chamfer on the rear wing in order to get the foil to stop humming.

Trailing edge sanded

Another awesome session!

Evening Session - 1/19/20

Got in an evening session yesterday after taking Marlon to music practice and running a bunch of errands.

The tide was really low, so I opted to bring the longboard instead of the foils.  There is an out of season small SW swell pushing - I'll take it!  There was a little wind on the faces, but not enough to chop it up.  I stayed out for 5 waves, then headed in (had to hit Home Depot for some gloves and a couple of files).

Got a bonus green flash sighting as the sun dove beneath the horizon.  Sometimes it's the little things that make it all good.