Evening Session - 1/12/2024

Marlon and I went to WPB to fly drones - but we saw the surf, ran back to the truck, went back to the house and grabbed our boards of choice.

Marlon brought his longboard, and I brought the Sweet Potato.

This was a short session - but I ended up catching some really fun waves.  Each one caught was better than the previous one.  on my last one I had some really good turns and it was pretty long.

Marlon was catching whatever he wanted - longboard definitely helped.

Duke was out and prone foiling the board Prayot gave him to wingfoil.  Pretty smart to figure out where the foil goes by proning the board.  And he was also catching pretty much whatever wave he wanted. 

Fun (but really cold for Oahu) first surfing session of the year!!!

W:4/F:4/S:1

Evening Session - 12/7/2023

Small wave evening session.  I'm just happy that there are still ridable waves on the south shore (surfline was calling this 20 kJ).

It was super low tide - so I opted to surf.  And for the given conditions, I brought out the Firewire Sweet Potato (in Volcanic - because it already had the Wayne Rich Nightmare Twins on board).  

I got out late because I took a short nap at home after I got home from work.  The crowd was not too bad (still lots of Wavestorm Gerry Lopez foamies in the water),  The waves were waist to belly high on the sets.

I caught maybe 7 good waves - where I could throw the board around and got some distance from the ride.

Roland and Prayot were on foils.  I didn't want to go there (0.1 low tide....).

Fun day!!!

W:117/F:105/S:57

Evening Session - 11/1/2023

I got in a late afternoon session today.  I thought the waves would still have a little size from earlier this week - but the waves were belly or less.  There was very little wind so it was nice and glassy.  And the waves did standup a little bit better since it was low tide.

I brought the Firewire Sweet Potato in Volcanic, and I put in the True Ames Wayne Rich Nightmare keels.

I caught a bunch of gut-less waves, but did get a handful of really fun waves where multiple hard turns and gouges were had.

Roland was out in his longer board - he was more patient and waited for the bomber to roll through (relative size wise).

Such a good combo!

If I go tomorrow, I might have to break out the Viking...

W:104/F:99/S:54

Dawn Patrol - 10/9/2023

Dawn patrolled this morning with Marlon.  Nice lines coming through on a low tide with minimal wind.

Marlon brought his longboard and was nabbing plenty of waves.

As a part of my continuing experimentation with the fins I have in my garage, I swapped out the Hess Noriegas for these Wayne Rich Nightmare keels/twins.

I was floored by how good these fins are!!!

Drive and release are hard to balance, but that was not an issue here at all.  I got multiple waves in the short time frame we had.

Down the line speed (which these fins actually enhanced - speed builders with the concaves in the upper portion of the fin), and release when cranking turns.

It's like every set of fins I put on the Sweet Potato is better than the last...

W:102/F:93/S:42