Evening Session -3/30/2021

Late post from yesterday - Marlon and I hit WPB in the late afternoon.  Wind was up (Eli was ripping on the wing - I didn't see him come down off foil once), tide was on the full side and there were waves - head high on the sets!

Marlon brought his Submoon and I had the Dually.  I saw Marlon take off on a few really good ones!!!  I kept drifting towards the crowd on my first few waves (blocked and had to abort the launch a few times).  But towards the end the crowd dispersed and I caught a few gems!  I keep forgetting how much fun surfing (not foiling) can be!

Evening Session - 8/19/2020

Marlon and I hit WPB again - the swell was a little smaller than yesterday - but chest to shoulder high.  Everything else was pretty much the same.  Oh - the crowd seemed to be more dense.

We both brought shortboards out.  I saw Marlon catch a really good one - nice drop with a fun bottom turn and back down off the top.

I had quite a few really good ones - the dually stubby has been quite the fun board!   I tried to just go right today - had one wave where I got lined up with a wall and just went all out (but compared to foiling, it felt like I was stuck in second gear).  A couple were really fun drops with some turns.  Yesterday was definitely better for the shortboard.  The swell is supposed to continue to drop off - if I hit it tomorrow it will be foiling (and possibly at PTs).

Evening Session - 8/18/2020

I checked the report earlier in the day and it said a chest + high swell had set in.  I got home around 4pm and grabbed Marlon to hit the beach. 

I brought the Green Dually Stubby 5'10".  Before leaving the truck I pushed the fins up just a notch - maybe a 1/4" to see what that would do (last time I had the opportunity to take this board out, it just felt a tad sticky - it wasn't flowing). 

The swell would hit just overhead every now and then.  The tide was coming down from a big high so there was some depth.  The wind was up and from the East.  Eli was out on his 6m Wasp (and probably on his GL210).  All I know is every wave I caught was better than the previous one.  The board seemed to come alive and it was definitely "flowing".  No more stickiness!!!  Amazing what a 1/4" will do for a board.

Marlon was sitting out trying to pick off some of the bomber sets - I saw him on one that was just overhead and nothing but face in front of him - was definitely worth the wait.

On my last few waves, the board was working perfectly - nice easy drop on a slightly less than head high wave, front side bottom turn into a wall that let me get 3 or 4 fun turns in - Number 17 was working it today!!!

Evening Session - 6/2/2020

The south swell that started hitting yesterday was filling in nicely today.  The larger sets (overhead) were a little inconsistent, but they were totally worth the wait - Marlon got full on tubed taking off on one of the bigger ones (I got to witness the whole thing, but from the backside).  He also got another tube on the last wave he took on the outside.  Needless to say he is buzzing.

I brought the Dually Stubby.  I caught several, but my rides were short - nice drops, enough wall to get a good turn in then it was over.  Can't complain.  Oh - and we hit Pine Trees (which we both agreed is a better break).

Evening Session - 5/18/2020

The surf was forecasted to be bigger today than yesterday, so Marlon and I grabbed the boards when I got home and headed out.  Since he was bringing his shortboard, I figured I'd bring mine (and I still remember the lesson from yesterday - some days are better for surfing than foiling).  The swell was bigger - on the sets the waves were a bit overhead.  There was some wind on the surf and the wind was strong enough to slow you down going right (into the wind).  The tide was dropping... and that makes me wonder if that had something to do with the break (as noted yesterday, there were waves coming in, but sometimes they wouldn't break).  There were some long lulls between sets.  If you waited on the inside, there were some small fun waves breaking - but I could not resist the bombers coming through - I was compelled to wait and take the bigger drops.  I ended up catching three really good waves - tall drop followed by a hard bottom turn and a reasonable run along a wall.  The last one was well overhead and the drop was fantastic.

At this point I must say that there are few feelings in this existence that compare with catching a solid wave on a board you planned, shaped and glassed with your own two hands.  The Dually Stubby gave me that feeling today.

Marlon had some good ones too - and one scare.  He looked over at me and was holding his upper teeth.  He was tying his trunks and a sneaker wave passed through - caught him off guard and the board hit him.  No dings and no broken teeth - so all is good.  He got a few more waves and we called it.  He tamed the squirrel - that is another story.

Proper Anointment of the Dually Stubby

The south swell filled in so Marlon and I headed out once I got home from work.  The tide was high again at +1.9'.  The wind was side shore - it picked up every now and then, but it wasn't chopping up the surface.  Marlon had some awesome rides - slightly overhead on the set waves!!!

Obviously I brought out the Dually Stubby.  It was a hair squirrelly on my first couple of waves (it is a 5'10" after all), but my third wave was a gem!  Green wave takeoff, solid drop and bottom turn up into a lined up wall.  I turned up and back a few times and I popped off the back.  I had a couple more similar waves, but the crowd was making it hard to pick off the best waves (again, this being a 5'10").  On one missed wave, I belly rode the board and without much effort, I made it all the way to the beach.  My last one was similar - just kept prone and rode the wave all the way in - a sign that this board has a good rocker line.  This board has been properly anointed!!!

#17 (Dually Stubby) is Pretty Much Done

I went ahead and sprayed urethane on the top of the Dually Stubby - just short of the tail.

I still need to fill the slight epoxy shrinkage on the leash plug as well as a couple of small divots on the corners of the tail.  I'll line up a few boards that need a little epoxy work and get this knocked out before the next swell shows up (likely this coming weekend).