Showing posts with label Marlon Surfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Marlon Surfing. Show all posts

Sunday, December 1, 2024

Evening Session - 12/1/2024

And Marlon and I hit WPB for a late afternoon mid-length surfboard session.

Waves seemed to have come down - but we were just looking at a lull.


The waves were actually really good.

Marlon brought the Submoon and I brought the Tomo Revo Max

I had the Vernor Magic Twins on 


This actually turned out to be a super fun session.  I caught several waves where there was a wall to turn-carve-turn - this board is great!!!

I'm actually going to pass on the FD foil dawn patrol - but only so I can surf!!!

W:145/PW:2/FD:87/F:5/S:24

Sunday, December 10, 2023

Dawn Patrol - 12/10/2023

Dawn patrol this morning - almost as good as yesterday.

Waves were slightly smaller, but more consistent.  And the wind was a little stronger than yesterday (but not enough to really mess with the surf).


Lance from Kailua came over.  He brought his big SUP.

Marlon brought the Submoon again.


I brought the same gear as yesterday.


Lots more people in the water today, so I would peel off the wave sooner than normal.  


The breaching issues I was having yesterday... all cured.  I was able to crank some super hard turns today without losing it.  Probably one of my better days on the Foil Drive.


22 waves in 1.5 hours (7 waves per half hour - so 1 every 5 minutes - ridiculous!!!!)

W:117/F:107/S:58

Saturday, December 9, 2023

Dawn Patrol - 12/9/2023

Dawn patrol this morning was really good!

Surfline was calling a small southern hemisphere swell at 52 kJ (swell energy).  The tide was pretty low and dropping.  Very little wind so really good conditions for Foil Driving!!! 


I setup the Spitfire 960/375P today.  Marlon brought out the Firewire Submoon.


I got the battery down to 50% after 2 hours.


The surf was really good at dawn and stayed that way for about an hour.  After that it got a little bit lully.  A couple of sets rolled through that were head high.

The Spitfire caught me off guard a few times - it would break the surface and down I'd go.  The Advance Crazy Short fuselage makes this setup pitch sensitive (and more lively/fun).

I got to recycle plenty of times this morning - doubles, triples and even a quad.

Turning was bliss!


24 waves in 2 hours!!!!


Hopefully this swell sticks around for tomorrow's dawn patrol!

W:117/F:106/S:58

Sunday, September 18, 2022

Dawn Patrol - 9/18/2022

Marlon and I dawn patrolled this morning.  He brought the Submoon (and I watched him get some really good rides).

Waves were belly to chest high - but with the transitioning tide (flood) you had to either way outside, or way inside.

Very little wind made for really nice conditions.


I ended up running one more experiment.  I took the same foiling setup out as the previous foiling session - but swapped out the 375P for the 400P.  So the setup was the ART 999/400P on the Ultrashort fuselage.


I caught a bunch of waves - and several of them ended up being doubles if not triples.  Super fun session this morning!

The 400P definitely gave more lift so it was easier to pump.  I think the 375P has a place with this - especially once the waves get higher than chest.  The smaller rear stabilizer will allow for bigger/faster takeoffs.

W:92/F:79/S:21

Sunday, September 11, 2022

Dawn Patrol - 9/11/2022

Dawn patrol this morning saw a bigger swell, but oddly it wasn't breaking - just like yesterday...

The tide was pretty full (but waves still break on a fuller tide), and there was no wind - super clean!!!

I opted to change out the ART 999/400P/Crazy Short setup that I have been using lately to the ART 899/375P/Ultra Short fuselage.

Lots of surfers showed up in anticipation of an uptick in wave size -


Every 15 minutes or so, a set showed up that was breaking on the far outside.  It was just odd that the swell would pass through to the far inside without breaking.


Marlon was shortboarding, but at some point he went in and was flying the drone.

I caught several really fun waves.  The 899 provides for a less abrupt takeoff, but definitely harder to pump back out.  What it gave up in glide and pumping (which it still did have - just not as much as the bigger ARTs - but that isn't unexpected) to made up in additional speed.


This was the first time I used the 899 surfing (and this is also probably one of the longest streaks of using the ARTs in the surf).  I ended up changing too many variables - the front foil, the fuselage length and the rear stabilizer - all different this run.  I did enjoy this setup, but I think it would have been more appropriate if the larger waves were breaking throughout the range.  The 999 would have let me connect more waves.


There was a really long lull between the first wave I caught and the series Marlon took pictures of here.  I ended up having to position much closer to the inside before I was riding again.  Tomorrow is supposed to be the peak of this swell(?), with some trade activity returning.  I think I'll continue to give my bout of golfer's elbow on my left arm a break - so I'll likely prone foil again tomorrow.

W:92/F:76/S:19

Saturday, September 10, 2022

Dawn Patrol - 9/10/2022

Marlon and I hit the dawn patrol this morning.  He brought his Submoon and was having a blast.

I brought the same setup as last time.  Compared to the last session, the waves were cleaner, the tide was lower, and the waves were just a tad bigger - at least at the onset.  The waves seemed to get smaller and diminish as the tide dropped (counter intuitive).

I was catching some fun ones and had plenty of double dips (and even a triple every now and then).  Lots of carving up and down the face, and riding across the break (last cabin to the showers, then back again and over to Middles - lots of back and forths).

The chatter in the lineup was that tomorrow will be bigger... 


W:92/F:75/S:19

Sunday, May 29, 2022

Dawn Patrol - 5/29/2022

Close carbon copy of yesterday - Marlon on his Seaside, me on the 4'8" prone board. I thought the conditions were better than yesterday (although that was a topic of debate out in the line up today).  Regardless - there was less wind, the surf was a tad bit smaller, and the current was down from the river it had been the past few days.


I did mix it up a bit though - 1095 on the Stringy fuselage (60cm) with one of my 14.875" rear stabilizers bolted on.  When I was setting this up last night, I had to use both the circle shims and the PPC plate shim to level it out.  It was level - I didn't have to wrestle the setup to ride level.




But looking at the foil, you can definitely see the lean backwards on the mast.

I caught a bunch of waves and had some long rides - I have to pump this foil less than the 980 (and it was smaller today) - but the lift is a lot more progressive and with the shorter fuselage, the whole setup had a lot more pitch sensitivity than I am used to.  The other thing I noticed during setup was the rear stabilizer bolts needed to be downsized to 14mm and I had to still use a shim to get enough distance to tighten the bolts.

Kalani, Tim, Noel and Ryan were out - lots of comparing notes on equipment today.  Roland rolled up after 8 - I got a closer look at his setup - here is where his fairly new Hyper 190 is cracking.  He definitely tests the limits of his equipment.


W:44/F:52/S:16

Saturday, May 28, 2022

Dawn Patrol - 5/28/2022

Dawn patrolled with Marlon this morning.  Tim and Kalani were there.  Surf was pretty big on the sets - it was breaking way outside - further than I was interested in paddling and it was barreling.  I stayed where the outside normally was.

I rigged the Kujira 980 with the 218 rear stabilizer and had the 4'8" prone board out.  Marlon brought his Firewire Seaside.


Waves were overhead - I got a few really solid rides - walls and great turns on the sections.  The current was pretty bad - stronger than yesterday - was dragging foilers faster than the surfers over towards Hau Bush.  

I eventually saw Marlon's drone towards the end of my session - I was already trying to get in.  He also got video of Kalani and his surfer friends.


Fun day!

W:44/F:51/S:16

Saturday, April 9, 2022

Dawn Patrol - 4/9/2022

Dawn patrolled this morning.  Decided to take the Firewire Sunday out thinking the swell would have built up and knowing the tide was on the really low side.  Marlon brought out his Seaside.

It took me a few waves to regain the feel of a shorter board on a juicer wave.  I did have a few really fun rides (but all way shorter than on foil).


I totally forgot I had this board setup as a twin.  Early on I would lean in and try to maneuver hard to the top of the wave - no joy - twins don't turn like thrusters.

Fun day (but for what ever reason, I am way more tired after surfing on a board, than I normally am foiling).

W:23/F:35/S:11

Sunday, January 30, 2022

Dawn Patrol - 1/30/2022

Dawn patrolled again this morning - the swell that started hitting yesterday was still here (for the first half of the session).  Marlon brought his Submoon.  I took out the same setup as yesterday (trying to get it dialed in).  I didn't leave anything in the bed this time (peace of mind).


The waves were slightly smaller than yesterday, but it was choppier today.  I caught some really fun ones - but the repeats were fewer than yesterday.  After the first hour, the waves dropped in size and the chop subsided.


I was having a hard time making the drop and bottom turning onto the wave faces - so I moved the mast forward.  That seemed to lessen the issue - but I'm going to have to keep working on this.  Truthfully I should have had the 980 on, but oh well.


Kalani was on the beach!!!  He's on the road to recovery and getting out there on a longboard was a great leap forward!


Had to run errands today so I called it around 8:30.  Fun session!!!

W:3/F:10/S:4

Wednesday, July 7, 2021

Evening Session - 7/7/2021

And just like that, things flipped - Marlon had a great session and I had a tumultuous one.  The takeoffs I had on the outside had that secondary "suction" that totally goofed up the foil and I was flung around little a rag doll.  Marlon was catching a bunch and getting some fun turns in.


Totally opposite story from yesterday...


You win some - you lose some!  Take them all and have fun!

Saturday, June 19, 2021

Dawn Patrol - 6/19/2021

Dawn patrol again.  I brought the same setup as yesterday (and got nearly the same result).  I even had the GL140 in the truck... I've got no one else to blame.  So for sure the NL160 is not the foil to use when it gets overhead.

Marlon brought the midlength - I didn't see him out, but he said he got some good ones.


I'm torn between bringing out a surfboard tomorrow, or the new 4'8" foil board with the smaller Armstrong front foils...  

All I know is I have to buck this trend.

Dawn Patrol - 6/18/2021

Marlon and I hit the dawn patrol yesterday.  Our dragon fruit cactus was in bloom.  The surf was big, but it was really choppy.


Marlon brought the Sub Moon.


I brought the wide 4'10" with the NL160.


It didn't matter - I got taken to the cleaners.  The foil hit me on my right calf, my head and my right foot.  It was pretty frustrating.

Tuesday, May 25, 2021

Evening Session - 5/25/2021

The swell that started hitting yesterday was in full swing - Marlon and I went after I got home from work.  I didn't even see Marlon out the entire time.  I paddled out to Two Cots - catch two on the inside to get used to the extra height on the takeoffs, then paddled to the outside to catch some of the bigger waves.


On the big ones, the first few were more tests on the claim that the NL foils can punch through the whitewater.  I found that for the most part, the claim was true - and I would make it out of the wash and onto clean face more times than not.  A few broken waves had too much whitewater and I ate it - but those were the exceptions. Towards the end of the session, I started paddling for green, unbroken waves.  Honestly, I believe this is where the Go Foils really shine.  I think on the overhead faces, I would have had less drag (I could feel it on the really long runs on the lined up walls) if I used the GL140.  According to my watch, I hit 21.3 mph.   


This distance chart is where I disagree with the watch.  I know I caught one wave way outside and rode it all the way in - that should have been close to 1000' - I got a 900' ride the other day and this felt much longer.


Marlon had the Go Pro - and he had some good rides from the look of it.


Super fun session!  My verdict on the NL160... its a keeper and super fun.  I now need to thin out one of the G10 rear stabilizers I made - I want to make this foil go even faster (but I think it is the overall surface area and profile limiting the speed - but 21.3 mph is pretty darn good; if this swell sticks around, I'll bolt on the GL140 to compare the top speed).

Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Evening Session -3/30/2021

Late post from yesterday - Marlon and I hit WPB in the late afternoon.  Wind was up (Eli was ripping on the wing - I didn't see him come down off foil once), tide was on the full side and there were waves - head high on the sets!


Marlon brought his Submoon and I had the Dually.  I saw Marlon take off on a few really good ones!!!  I kept drifting towards the crowd on my first few waves (blocked and had to abort the launch a few times).  But towards the end the crowd dispersed and I caught a few gems!  I keep forgetting how much fun surfing (not foiling) can be!

Sunday, March 14, 2021

Dawn Patrol - 3/14/2021

Marlon and I hit the dawn patrol - he brought his Submoon out, and I had the wide 4'10" with HS1850.  The waves were surprisingly good - consistently waist high, and clean.  The tide was pretty high at 1.6' - so little worries about grounding.  I saw Kalani in the parking lot and he asked which foil I was using - he rigged the same. 


I caught a few waves and with the 1850 I was pumping back out without issue, but the waves were picking up.  I told Kalani I was thinking about chopping my 1550 - more out of boredom than need - he offered for me to use the 1550 I chopped down for him.  I switched out wings and was back at it.  The chopped wing was loose, but still had a good amount of lift.  I foiled with it for a while.  I'm going to chop mine down.


I saw Marlon on several waves - despite the new board being over a foot shorter than his longboard, he isn't skipping a beat.  


Lots of fun this morning!

Saturday, March 13, 2021

Dawn Patrol - 3/13/2021

Marlon and I hitched a ride with Prayot this morning out to Seconds.  There were waves and the wind was mostly offshore.  The only issue was the tide - really full and it was drowning out the break.  Despite the tide, we were catching and riding.


Marlon had the GoPro so these are all his picture today.


Marlon had his new Firewire Submoon out and he was catching some gems.


I had the wide 4'10" and the Armstrong HS1550 (with the chopped 300).  I also caught a bunch, but I could keep riding when the waves back off (but still showed bumps).  I rode several from the second channel markers almost all the way to the first markers.  I had a couple of steep takeoffs - time to start getting prepared and trained up again for summer time.


I think I need a boat now...