Sunday Dawn Patrol - 20 October

Marlon and I hit the beach at first light on Sunday.

The wind was light, the swell was up (chin high on the sets, if not higher) and tide was headed to a high of 2.0'.  Same equipment as the last few times.

I paddled out to the green waves to see if I could takeoff on these - I wanted to find the upper end of the CF1600's range.  Well - I found it.  The first three waves I took off on I was able to get to my feet, but the speed I was going was a bit much - I got thrown.  If I did make the drop and settle, I ended up breaching.  I figured I should stop beating myself up and stop trying to break my gear by going back towards shore and picking up the waves once they've dissipated some of their raw energy.  After that, I was getting some really long rides and cranking some turns.  I had one turn where the foil dropped out from underneath me again.  After that I tried leaning into the turn and anticipating the extra speed and the turns seemed to get better.  Further in the session, I had a mix of aborts (it got crowded and I had to stop or put the noobs at risk if I messed up the ride) and wipes (green waves again... can't help myself).  At this surf height, I should bolt on the HS1550.

I was using the Takuma coiled leash - I won't be doing that again - I never felt comfortable using it.

This was also the day of the Board Swap at Kalaeloa.  Lots of cool boards!

Spring Patagonia Honolulu Board Swap

 It's fun checking out what boards are up for sale.

Patagonia Haleiwa Board Swap

I got an email from the Patagonia Shop up in Haleiwa. They held a Board Swap similar to what the shop down in Kakaako holds. This one didn't have the foot traffic that the other shop's swaps have had in the past. There was some bigger surf in the ocean probably drawing away anyone who would be looking for boards. I brought a couple of boards we have not been using just to see if there was any interest - nope. One thing that Marlon noticed that was different was the addition of several wind sculptures - the gallery at the corner on Kam Hwy has them all over! Nice addition (but I wonder if they bring them in every night so people don't steal them...). Lastly (no pictures though), Marlon and I hit White Plains to end the long streak of not surfing - felt really good to get back into the water. I definitely need to surf more (for more fun and to whittle away my extra chunk)!

Second Patagonia Board Swap

We checked out the board swap meet that Patagonia Honolulu was holding. There weren't as many boards or folks selling as there were last time... the shop folks said they thought the big swell up North made people not show up. But some other folks showed up (Mark C.) And they had some cool boards - I liked this Swizzle Stick (and I'm glad it was sold before I got there, otherwise I would have gone into instinct mode and started spouting sayings to La like "Oh, this'll be the last board I ever buy", "I've been looking for one of these since forever and I need to jump on this now", or this one that makes her laugh hysterically - "I need to get this board or I'm going to cry". Realistically, I need another board like I need a chia pet. I'm glad I wasn't tested ;)

Patagonia Honolulu Board Swap

The Patagonia shop on Ward Ave had a board swap on Sunday. They sent out a email flyer and I signed up to put two boards on the rack - my Stretch 6'5" and Charlie's 7'2" fun board. The fun board sold, but as fate would have it, I still have my Stretch. Maybe I need to try shortboarding again... A few alaias made it into the racks, but I didn't see any sold. And a famous guy roaming through the crowd selling some logs. Since this was the first board swap at this shop, I think not as many boards ended up moving to new owners. In fact, it seemed like most of the people looking around were also selling boards. I bet once the next swap happens and word gets out, this one will be just as productive as the East of Maui Swap meets are back in Annapolis.