Friday, December 27, 2019

Friday Afternoon Session - 27 December

We all headed out to the beach again this afternoon.  Waves were almost no existent.  Tide was high at 0.7' (low high - the high high is before dawn - while I'm at work...).  And the wind was light - easterly trades.

The small waves tend to focus everyone to the same takeoff point, so days like this can be a little frustrating - unless you are on a foil (then you can just ride the energy from an unbroken wave).

La and Noe came again - but this time they didn't jump in the water.  That meant Marlon and I had a personal photographer on the beach (thanks La!).

Marlon is light enough still that he can pick off the small ones without bogging down.

I brought out the 5'6" because I figured the waves would be tiny.  And to that effect, I also setup the Maliko 200.  I got lucky with the placement - balanced on the first try.  Paddling this setup, I could feel the drag - but for these conditions, this really was spot on.

This was actually a kick out - I didn't want to run aground.  I got bolder as the session went on - I "nudged" the bottom twice while paddling out, but did ride the waves almost all the way in.

This is an awesome feeling - riding high and flowing with a bump.

Look at the suction the Maliko is drawing down - this foil saved the day!

I ended up catching six waves.  I breached on one - I was trying to stay high up on a glide and pushed it too far.  On my last wave, I was actually able to pump back out - way out.  If there was an incoming wave, I would have had a solid 2 for 1.  I was stoked just to keep the momentum going.  Pumping on the Maliko is much slower than any of the other wings - there is good resistance and once I found a good slow pace, it all just flowed.

This has definitely been a great year learning to foil and gaining a deeper understanding of making the most of the energy moving through waves.

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