Saturday, February 15, 2020

Evening Session on a Rising Swell - 2/15/2020

Marlon went out with some friends earlier in the day, so it was just me on the evening session.  I purposely waited so the crowd would die down.  The front runners of a rising swell starting hitting - so I opted for the TJ Everyday.  Mixing surfing into the constant foiling is just as good as mixing up the different foils - all this change keeps you from getting too comfortable on just one thing and it helps with balance and the ability to react quickly in all the endeavors.

Through this picture, I can feel the projection... I love going fast and leaning into a large radius carve!

The swell was head high on the big sets - it's only February and we gotten some good rounds of southern hemisphere energy - I am not complaining!  Most of the waves were waist to chest high - but again it's the dead of winter.  The tide was really low and was not going to get above 0.5' while there was daylight - another reason I opted for the conventional surfboard.  There was a bit more wind today - and it actually made it a bit hard to stay on the waves if I went right (wind would blow straight under the nose of the board).

I caught several bombs - it felt really good taking the drop!  Really fun session - and I'm glad I left the foil at home!  If the swell keeps filling in, I'll bring the Greedy Beaver out tomorrow (with the Solus center fin - to loosen up the tail).

Used the bed to take the board to the beach, and the roof racks to go home.  I felt more at ease with the board on top and tied down - something to think about.  Really fun session!!!!

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