Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Sunday Morning at Pops

I have been fighting a chest cold, but I figured a little surf would do me good - the physical exertion loosened up the phlegm in my chest and I was hacking up green blobs the whole session. Knowing we'd be a few hours, Charlie drove (parking in Waikiki can get expensive quick - carpooling saves resources). Apparently Charlie works with some junior officers (they're all still in the Navy) who doubt he surfs. For those doubters, here he is, early in the morning, surfing in the rain. The forecast called for 4-6' faces. I'd say when we were out it was more like 1-3', with the occasional bigger. This guy on the Naish board was hogging everything. Even after you had already committed to taking a wave, he would decide it was 'his' and paddle for it anyways. Here's Charlie looking like a guilty wave snaker, but in reality he's trying to make the world a safer place (taking out the hoggers). I had my share of wipes. I really like Pops - same wave as Threes, but none of the reef penalties (cuts and dings from going too far). I got back home and napped the rest of Sunday away.

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