Evening Session - 12/6/2024

Another SW swell is hitting - super awesome considering it's December.

Chest to head high on the sets - but even with a low tide, the waves were pretty fat and didn't want to break until it hit the inside (and then you would have to contend with closeouts).

If you keep the mindset that surfing is about finding the good in the situation you find yourself in, then there were good sections to be had.

Marlon brought out his newer longboard (Luna?).

I continued the Revo Max streak and had the NVS Taylor Knox Twins in today. 

The search is over - these fins did everything I needed them to - hold on the drop, drive and nimbleness in the bottom turn and release at the end of a top turn - all with my sore knee (so I know if was more the previous fins).

Now I can go and ride my other boards (the Cymatic and Great White Twin have been calling my name... I just wanted to get the Revo Max dialed in first).

W:145/PW:2/FD:87/F:5/S:29

Evening Session - 12/4/2024

When I was on my way home, there were lots of clouds hanging around, and there was some onshore wind blowing.  I was debating whether to go surf or start sanding No.39 - from the picture you can see what I ended up deciding to do (I hate sanding).

There was still some good surf coming through - 

And the sand is starting to fill back in.

I put the Futures T1 Twin fins in for today's run.

The only bad thing about today was there were a lot of kooks in the water socializing - and getting in the way of some good rights.

On the waves I did get some length out of, these T1 fins felt really smooth.  I didn't line up with any sections where I could try to push the tail through the turn so I didn't get to see if these fins are the enablers I'm looking for.  My assessment is these feel good, have enough hold, and I'm going to assume they also release well.

I'm not sure if the conditions will hold for surfing... I'm going to charge my Foil Drive battery up - but if I can surf the Revo Max, I think I want to try out the Taylor Knox Twins from NVS.

W:145/PW:2/FD:87/F:5/S:28

Evening Session - 12/3/2024

The waves were still up this evening - 

Marlon was out on his Firewire Seaside.

And to continue the fin optimization, I choose the Glenn Pang Twins

These fins felt more nimble for their size compared to the Black birds from yesterday 

They still had drive (to dig in a good first bottom turn), and they have more release than the Black Birds.  But I could feel my right knee more today than other days - so I think that is preventing me from getting that turn I've been looking for.

Since I started later today, I only got a handful of waves, but they were all really good and lined up.  I got in a ton of good turns - just not the one I saw on Youtube.

Tomorrow I'm going to try out the T1s - with less overall area and more rake, I may be getting closer.

W:145/PW:2/FD:87/F:5/S:27

Evening Session - 12/2/2024

After running a bunch of errands, I got home, picked up Marlon and we hit the beach to relish in the still really good surf.

Marlon brought his newer longboard.

I continued the fin testing in the Revo Max with the NVS Blackbird Keels.

These still had drive, but they did release a little better than the Vernor Magic Twins.  But not easy enough to do the TV turn...

I have also been having issues with my right knee (too much Foil Drive-ing - if I put too much pressure it starts to hurt).  Not sure if it is more fin or me not being able to push more with my back foot.

This swell is supposed to start coming down... I may only have one other session at WPB to try out another set of fins (I've got the Glenn Pang Twins in the slots now).

W:145/PW:2/FD:87/F:5/S:26

Dawn Patrol - 12/2/2024

Had to dawn patrol today - the swell was peaking.  I bumped into Tim - he has been surfing up North.

Surf was really consistent, and it still had some size.

I took the Revo Max out for another run with the Vernor Magic Twins to better quantify their performance.

After catching several good rides, I came the following conclusion - these fins have great hold and drive.  They feel great when doing a bottom turn, but they don't release easily (which is not a surprise).

This board is super fun!!!  I'm going to be cycling twins through this as long as the waves are good to try and get the board to do the Travis Vargas turn (that I saw on the youtube video).

W:145/PW:2/FD:87/F:5/S:25

Evening Session - 12/1/2024

And Marlon and I hit WPB for a late afternoon mid-length surfboard session.

Waves seemed to have come down - but we were just looking at a lull.

The waves were actually really good.

Marlon brought the Submoon and I brought the Tomo Revo Max

I had the Vernor Magic Twins on 

This actually turned out to be a super fun session.  I caught several waves where there was a wall to turn-carve-turn - this board is great!!!

I'm actually going to pass on the FD foil dawn patrol - but only so I can surf!!!

W:145/PW:2/FD:87/F:5/S:24

Anointment of the Firewire Revo Max - 11/21/2024

After finishing the repairs on Harris's wingboard and getting a package to the post office, I took the Revo Max over to the beach.

There were waist high breaking waves so I decided to get the new board wet!!!

I don't know where the sand is going or why it is leaving... it's winter on the South Shore and the sand is supposed to be migrating to the beach...

I caught a couple of handful of waves - and I had several really good rides.  This board is definitely a keeper!!!!

Catches the waves it should easily.  Turns really nicely.  Grovels across flat sections well.  All in this board is really fun.  I'll have to do some back to back testing with the Sweet Potato to see which board is better in what conditions - but I can see these two boards being the backbone of my surfing.

The more I rode this board, the more it reminded me of the 6'4" thrusters I used to ride as my daily drivers back in the late 90's - so this board felt instantly familiar.

If this board can ride the shitty waves that were coming in today, it will pay back every penny and more that I paid for it.

W:145/PW:2/FD:81/F:5/S:21

New Surfboard - 11/20/2024

La let me get a new board for my Birthday (really Christmas).  I placed a deposit on an inbound Firewire Revo Max - and it came in today (on my 53rd birthday)!

We waited for Marlon to get back home from work, then headed over to Hawaiian South Shore to pick up the new board!

Yes I can build surfboards - but sometimes it is nice to ride boards shaped by other people - just to get different perspectives.  This board has a ton of different attributes - the quad inside single/double channel, the resulting spine that goes almost up to the nose, and the twin fin positioning - all super interesting.

There are not that many boards that catch my discerning eye these days - but when one does...

This one caught my attention due to a series of youtube videos - roundhouse cut backs in shitty waves...

Well - here it the board outfitted with rear foot deckpad, the leash tie and a nice coat of wax.

Hopefully there are some waves tomorrow to try this out in.