Monday, September 7, 2015
Big South Swell on 9/5/2015
White Plains Beach at Kalaeloa. 10 - 15 foot faces on the outside. I think I have found the limit that the ULI GLX2 can handle. Between the air blowing up the face and this swell pushing faster waves, I had a harder time making the drop. On the outside break just to west, the barrels were way overhead. I also know there are more sharks there. With no locals surfing that spot, I'd say we were all thinking the same thing (better safe than sorry). Last few times I've been in the sun, I've been torched. I caked on the sunscreen and even used some brown/tan Zinka on my face and shoulders. Smelled just like surfwax - ahhhhhhh! After a few on the outside, I paddled to the second reef break and surfed the more mellow 6 footers. Checkout the small water droplets on this picture - miniature globes!!! Fun session - I really need to get out more (so I can lose my belly fat).