This early season south swell was supposed to be getting bigger in incremental stages. And to beat the weekend crowd (and also because we had evening obligations), Marlon and I hit it on an early dawn patrol. The swell was a hair bigger if not the same as Saturday. The tide was low-ish around 0.5' - but the main difference was the wind. It was breezy and there was texture and chop for sure.
At the last minute, I changed out the Greedy Beaver for the TJ Everyday - figured I can't lose with the longboard. I was glad I made the change as the swell was not Chest to Overhead (which is what I like on the shorter board), but more like waist to chest. I waited for the bombers and I got some fun ones!
With the wind, Marlon got cold pretty quick (he doesn't have all the "insulation" that I have), so we called it before the crowd got too crazy. Great session!