Up early before the sun. The swell was chest high with bigger on the sets. Zero wind. Tide was hallway down from a 1.7' (dropping to 0' by 0900). I had the 4'10" and the Armstrong HS1550 and 232 rear wing.
I had the foil mounted where I thought it was last time - in between the Iwa and the CF1600 marks. I caught a couple of waves and felt I had to work too hard to get smooth lift. I paddled back in and adjusted the mast forward a few millimeters. I caught several more waves and it was well balanced. I was able to ride several waves from the middle break all the way to the beach. The 232 rear wing is definitely "slipperier" - I may switch to the Uni rear wing tomorrow to get more of a "tracking" feel. Most of my rides were with the mast almost all the way out of the water - had a couple of "gurgles" telling me I was almost too high - but that's what foiling is about.
There was one wave where I went left and a bowl section formed a ways down the line - I stayed low on the wave until I got to the bowl and pulled a super hard turn - so much fun!!! I don't know what I like more - the hard banking turns or dialed in gliding.
Marlon was catching a bunch. Lots of lined up walls and super fun takeoffs. We ended up staying out for over two hours. This swell is supposed to stick around... more fun tomorrow morning!