The forecast called for 1-2' - it seemed closer to 3' on the sets and there were even a few head high waves. I caught a few of those and rode them all the way from the outside where it was a semi-steep bump all the way to the inside by the beach. Early on it was big, smooth, glassy long walls - the Viking delivers what ever is needed exactly when it is needed - super easy takeoffs, glide to stay on the wave, and hard turning from the tail. If I could only have one board - this would be it.
Marlon had a bunch also - he didn't want to leave!
It's days like this that make me realize just how lucky I am to surf these waves, and to surf them with my son! Tomorrow the early morning tide is favorable for the foil!!!
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