Secondly - Marlon and I got an afternoon session in. High tide at 1500 at 1.2', hardly any wind, and lots of energy still coming in from the south!
I had the 5'2" out with the HS1550. I did not eat it as much today (still did on a few waves), but I'm getting the muscle memory built for the smaller sweet spot. I love hauling butt on this foil on the straight aways, then pulling a hard turn to shift away from a breaking section. There were a lot of people out today, so a lot of turning was to avoid them (turns are fun so I'll do them regardless).
I turned off the back of one wave and started pumping back out - I got 10 yards back out and ran out of steam - a good start to pumping back out. I think I just need to figure out a cadence and I'll be pumping out soon enough.
I was batting about 50 when I took off on steeper waves (of which there were many). If the wave pitches, I didn't stand a chance. If the front had a gradual slope or had an escape route built in (gradual slope to the left or right of where I was), then I stood a chance. Awesome when I made it - awesome wipe when I didn't.
I did hit bottom once when fighting white water on the inside, but I couldn't find even a scratch. During these lower high tide days, I have been paddling the foil upside down through the break zone until I get out past head high depth. Best insurance from hitting the bottom by far.
To close off this great day, the sunset was spectacular.
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