Monday, November 11, 2019

Afternoon Session - 11 November

First off - Happy Veteran's Day to all you veterans out there.  That life is not easy by a long shot, so thank you for what you've done in service to our country and helping to preserve our way of life.

Secondly - Marlon and I got an afternoon session in.  High tide at 1500 at 1.2', hardly any wind, and lots of energy still coming in from the south!

I had the 5'2" out with the HS1550.  I did not eat it as much today (still did on a few waves), but I'm getting the muscle memory built for the smaller sweet spot.  I love hauling butt on this foil on the straight aways, then pulling a hard turn to shift away from a breaking section.  There were a lot of people out today, so a lot of turning was to avoid them (turns are fun so I'll do them regardless).

I turned off the back of one wave and started pumping back out - I got 10 yards back out and ran out of steam - a good start to pumping back out.  I think I just need to figure out a cadence and I'll be pumping out soon enough.

I was batting about 50 when I took off on steeper waves (of which there were many).  If the wave pitches, I didn't stand a chance.  If the front had a gradual slope or had an escape route built in (gradual slope to the left or right of where I was), then I stood a chance.  Awesome when I made it - awesome wipe when I didn't.

I did hit bottom once when fighting white water on the inside, but I couldn't find even a scratch.  During these lower high tide days, I have been paddling the foil upside down through the break zone until I get out past head high depth.  Best insurance from hitting the bottom by far.

To close off this great day, the sunset was spectacular.

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