The swell hit and it was solid. Overhead on the sets!!! I brought the longboard and caught 6 bombs on the outside before going to surf the inside. There was no wind and the tide was low.
It has been a long while since I rode anything but the foilboards. It was a nice change to ride the longboard, but I had a psychological block on moving my feet (because of the foiling - I don't move my feet).
It is awesome that we got this swell this late in the year - a true gift from the southern hemisphere!!!
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