Monday, November 11, 2019

Dawn Patrol with Marlon - 10 November

The swell hit and it was solid.  Overhead on the sets!!!  I brought the longboard and caught 6 bombs on the outside before going to surf the inside.  There was no wind and the tide was low.

It has been a long while since I rode anything but the foilboards.  It was a nice change to ride the longboard, but I had a psychological block on moving my feet (because of the foiling - I don't move my feet).

It is awesome that we got this swell this late in the year - a true gift from the southern hemisphere!!!

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