Thursday, May 7, 2020

Proper Anointment of the Dually Stubby

The south swell filled in so Marlon and I headed out once I got home from work.  The tide was high again at +1.9'.  The wind was side shore - it picked up every now and then, but it wasn't chopping up the surface.  Marlon had some awesome rides - slightly overhead on the set waves!!!


Obviously I brought out the Dually Stubby.  It was a hair squirrelly on my first couple of waves (it is a 5'10" after all), but my third wave was a gem!  Green wave takeoff, solid drop and bottom turn up into a lined up wall.  I turned up and back a few times and I popped off the back.  I had a couple more similar waves, but the crowd was making it hard to pick off the best waves (again, this being a 5'10").  On one missed wave, I belly rode the board and without much effort, I made it all the way to the beach.  My last one was similar - just kept prone and rode the wave all the way in - a sign that this board has a good rocker line.  This board has been properly anointed!!!

No comments: