The surf was forecasted to be bigger today than yesterday, so Marlon and I grabbed the boards when I got home and headed out. Since he was bringing his shortboard, I figured I'd bring mine (and I still remember the lesson from yesterday - some days are better for surfing than foiling). The swell was bigger - on the sets the waves were a bit overhead. There was some wind on the surf and the wind was strong enough to slow you down going right (into the wind). The tide was dropping... and that makes me wonder if that had something to do with the break (as noted yesterday, there were waves coming in, but sometimes they wouldn't break). There were some long lulls between sets. If you waited on the inside, there were some small fun waves breaking - but I could not resist the bombers coming through - I was compelled to wait and take the bigger drops. I ended up catching three really good waves - tall drop followed by a hard bottom turn and a reasonable run along a wall. The last one was well overhead and the drop was fantastic.
At this point I must say that there are few feelings in this existence that compare with catching a solid wave on a board you planned, shaped and glassed with your own two hands. The Dually Stubby gave me that feeling today.
Marlon had some good ones too - and one scare. He looked over at me and was holding his upper teeth. He was tying his trunks and a sneaker wave passed through - caught him off guard and the board hit him. No dings and no broken teeth - so all is good. He got a few more waves and we called it. He tamed the squirrel - that is another story.
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