I brought the Green Dually Stubby 5'10". Before leaving the truck I pushed the fins up just a notch - maybe a 1/4" to see what that would do (last time I had the opportunity to take this board out, it just felt a tad sticky - it wasn't flowing).
The swell would hit just overhead every now and then. The tide was coming down from a big high so there was some depth. The wind was up and from the East. Eli was out on his 6m Wasp (and probably on his GL210). All I know is every wave I caught was better than the previous one. The board seemed to come alive and it was definitely "flowing". No more stickiness!!! Amazing what a 1/4" will do for a board.
Marlon was sitting out trying to pick off some of the bomber sets - I saw him on one that was just overhead and nothing but face in front of him - was definitely worth the wait.
On my last few waves, the board was working perfectly - nice easy drop on a slightly less than head high wave, front side bottom turn into a wall that let me get 3 or 4 fun turns in - Number 17 was working it today!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment