Friday Evening Session - 27 September

High tide was at 3:13pm at 2.2'.  The wind was up making the surface choppy and the swell was up - overhead on the outside.  The swell would break almost across the entire reef - but I was on the foil so I was on the inside anyways.  5'6" with the Iwa.  I caught a bunch of long rides with nice turns - so much fun.  Had to weave in and out of a bunch of people hanging on the inside.  Marlon said he was getting pummeled on the outside, so he dropped back on the inside.  This swell is supposed to stick around for a few days - I think I'm going to bring the shortboard out (gotta get these monsters while they are around!!!)