Today is my beautiful and wonderful wife's birthday!!! And she likes to sleep in SO....
I had the opportunity to get a dawn patrol session in!!! She pre-approved this so no issue -
It was another one of those days where it was breaking way the heck outside, but inside it was kinda closing out. The swell was coming in from 178 degrees (almost straight South).
The tide was low....
All those factors (time crunch, low tide, epic closeouts) - I chose to use the Firewire Cymatic 5'10" (I had traded the 5'9" I had bought new for this one to gain a few more liters volume), with the Kohola Thruster fins.
The extra volume makes this shape work better for me. Makes paddling in way easier. Based on this board and the Sweet Potato, I'd say my volume is now 37.5 liters.
These fins are something else also - all the drive and control you want from a set of nice, raked thrusters, but still loose enough to work around not-so clean waves.
I caught five waves and then headed in to make breakfast for La. They were all good fun and reinforced this board is tons of fun.
Wave 1 was a smaller wave and I got a few turns in.
Wave 2 was a bomb - late takeoff and a long rippable right wall. Good turns but I could tell my back foot was a bit forward of optimum.
Wave 3 was another late takeoff - but I was in perfect position - big turns top and bottom - long ride and mind blown (this board is staying in the quiver!!!)
Wave 4 was a big drop and closeout. Still validation that the volume is optimized for my fat ass.
Wave 5 was one last bomb - some good turns then I headed in.
I got home before La woke up and made her a really wonderful omelet!!!
I'm thinking if the swell sticks around, I'm gonna bring out the Revo Max with the Reverse Vector 3/2 Twins... or the Great White Twin with the Rasta Reverse Vector 3/2 2+1s
PF:5/W:2/PW:31/FD:28/S:12
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