Monday, April 13, 2020

Evening Session - 4/13/2020

La was kind enough to drop Marlon and me off at the surf spot again.  The waves were supposed to be 1-2', but to me they were more like 1'.  When the sets did come through they were thigh high - but that seemed like once every 20 minutes or so.  The tide was a rising high - but while we were out it was 0.5' to 1.0'.  I had to watch out for the bottom and flipped the foil up on the paddle back outs just to keep my sanity.  The wind was onshore, but it wasn't too bad at all.  I had the same setup as the past several sessions - GL180 on the 24.5"+3" mast and the 4'10" foil board.


I had over ten rides that just went on and on.  I caught a few green waves on the second shelf out towards the left, and the rest were waves that had broken already (with a foil it really doesn't matter if its all white water).  I rode them until they stood up again on the inside where I'd do a rebound turn and then kick out (because it would get shallow).  I did have one breach - kinda weird as I haven't breached on a straight run in a while.

Marlon caught a bunch - but would fade pretty fast.  He said he had to work for the waves - I agree, it seemed like less energy than the last time we went out on Saturday.  I still had a sense of anxiety think the cops would be out there ticketing - I'm be glad when the virus has moved on.

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