Saturday and Sunday Surfing

Marlon and I hit the beach on Saturday evening.  I was using the 5'2" and the Go Foil Iwa (on the 29.5" mast).  If you are shopping for a foil - the Go Foils wings are buoyant and float - this is good for some reasons (it you ever lose the foil, weight, and paddling on non-choppy days) and bad for others (paddling on choppy days - the board/foil go wherever it wants and not where you want it).

I got a few really fun rides, but the water was really choppy.  That really didn't matter once up on foil, but while paddling for a wave it made all the difference.  Marlon found another ding on La's board (after we just finished fixing the rest of them) so he went in early.  I do like this foil and it has a different feeling than the Slingshot - a little livelier... but not sure if that is due to the wing, or the mast height, the difference in buoyancy, or all of the above.

Today, we went out again and I used the Slingshot Infinity 76 on the 24" mast.  I had the foil jammed to the back of the tracks on the 5'2".

The water was way choppier than yesterday.  Stronger trades and a really close period on the swell made for a lot of paddling.  The Slingshot setup does not float and is considerably heavier than the Go Foil.  I got several waves, had a few steeper takeoffs (a relative term) and even took a couple to the beach.  Wave choice is definitely a large part of successful surf foiling - pick the ones that aren't so vertical but still have enough energy to get you moving.  Whitewater mush is not a bad thing...

At first I though the foil might be too far back as I wasn't lifting easily.  Then on my third wave I had my feet further back and I unweighted my front foot a bit (contrary to everything I've been trying to unlearn from surfing) and not only was I up - I was able to pump through the flat section and continue on the reform.  I got a few more rides just like that, but called it quits (as my belly had gotten rubbed raw from the front foot pad, and we had an old friend with us at the beach so I didn't want to stay out too long).  So I have gotten to the point where I'm exerting active pitch control (unweight front foot to pitch up, weight front foot to pitch down - maintain once you're where you want to be).

I bribed Marlon to take pictures from the water.  He got the settings misaligned but I was able to get a few photos (although he missed my bigger waves ;)

Thursday and Friday Foiling

Despite the lower tide, I decided to keep up with foiling on the Iwa.  On Thursday, I set the foil as far back on the tracks as possible (on the 5'2").

The lift was more controllable and I managed to get some pretty long rides.  I did hit the bottom twice while paddling (first on the way out, second while I was getting out at the end of the session).  Damage was minimal and I just need to get over this.  The swell was not small so some of the takeoffs resulted in crashes and burnages.

This evening Marlon and I went out and the swell was just a tad smaller (but still not small).  Same setup as yesterday and I got nearly the same results - just better.  More control (lighten up on the front foot to lift and down pressure to steady out).  On a couple of takeoffs, I was going way too fast - foil was humming and I popped out the back.

I did get some longer rides, pumped through some flat spots and was able to correct some back setups - so today was definitely better than yesterday!  Progress however small is always a good thing.  Marlon was back on La's longboard.  I saw him on a few rides - I think he is missing the thruster setup ;)

Third Swell of the Summer - Memorial Day Weekend

Another large-ish swell moved in this weekend.  Marlon and I went out on Sunday evening and again on Monday morning.  Lots of people in the water trying to get some of this swell.  I brought out the Greedy Beaver both days - and Marlon used the Wavestorm.

For me the swell and the tide weren't in synch -  and there ended up being a fairly large flat spot where no one was catching any waves.  Seems like you either had to be way out, or way inside.  Yesterday the board was a little more squirrely under my feet - I had a few great drops and decent rides - but also got worked on a few.  Today felt better on the waves I was able to catch - Marlon pointed it out that the wind was down from Sunday evening - cleaner equals easier takeoffs.

Today I also finished repairing the delamination on La's board (which Marlon has been historically riding).  Here it is all waxed up and ready to ride!  Another project checked off the list.

I'll move on to shaping Marlon's knee-paddling, nose riding, helicopter takeoff longboard next (tall order, but I'll give it a swing).

Kauai Bounce Trip

I had to scope out a project on Kauai this past Thursday.  Here are some pictures of one of my favorite places on this planet to just hang out.  Niihau and Lehua in the background of Majors Bay.

Pulled pork food truck turned brick and mortar (so ono!)

And I really wanted to bring these two back home - they wouldn't stop following me around.  Such a handsome couple!

I wish I had more time - would have gone fishing!

Saturday Evening Session - May 25

I brought the same setup from Thursday back out - Go Foil Iwa on the 29.5" (+3" Plate Adaptor) and the 5'2" Foilboard.

I dropped the foil backward in the boxes by a bunch (relatively speaking) - but the setup was actually harder to ride - or at least it seemed that way.

Thursday foil positioning - I recall thinking this was way too much lift.

Saturday - this didn't feel much lighter on the lift.  Either I had better foot placement on Thursday, or I am regressing???  When I head out again I'll jam it all the way back.

The swell forecasted to arrive did not seem to have materialized.  But because of the moon phase I had to ride the outside section (so as to not run aground).  I got a few rides in between the brutal flingings (I went down face first on one and definitely saw stars).

Marlon was practicing his helicopter takeoffs on the Wavestorm.  Fun session!

Thursday Foiling - May 23, 2019

Leftover medium sized swell coming up from the Southern Hemisphere.  I decided to bring the Go Foil Iwa out.  With the plate adaptor, this rig is over 33" tall!!!  I was better than 60% up and riding - and the longer runs were way up.  I did breech a couple of times, but I'm chalking that up to having the foil set too far forward in the track.  I'll pull the foil back next time and see if that makes a difference.

The Go Foil seems easier to get up and stay up on foil compared to the Slingshot.  Whenever the tide is super full (+1.5'), I'll bring this rig out - otherwise I think I'll hit bottom while waiting in between sets.

I also was using the 5'2".  I think it's time to go shorter permanently.  I can sense how shorter length is easier to pump the foil and easier for front foot placement.

Catch Up Post - Lots of Foiling

I've been ignoring this blog for a couple of weeks now - and not being able to take pictures while foiling (there is enough going on - like trying not to skewer myself, or doing everything to not breech the wing) has also made blogging different.

Anyways...

I think I went foiling on these days - 5/13, 5/15, 5/16, 5/18, 5/20, 5/21 and 5/23 (I'll post on this last day next).  I've been using the 5'6" and the Slingshot Infinity 76 on the 24" mast and I have been better than 50% up and riding.  I'm not getting bucked off at all - the ones I miss are all up front due to misplacing my front foot.  I'm used to moving around a lot on surfboards and being able to correct - not so on the foil, and I turn in hard to the wave.

I did crunch down on the front wing while waiting for a set to come through - there are definitely some high points on the reef that you wouldn't otherwise know were there.  A little sand paper, some primer and some orange spray paint should do the trick.

Next post I'll describe how I'm mixing it up.

Mother's Day 2019 Swell

The first big south swell of the year hit on Mother's Day.  It was overhead on the sets and the direction was perpendicular to the beach at White Plains (so it was closing out the normal outer break).

Marlon caught some good ones and got pounded a few times.  I caught four good ones (but the rides weren't too long because of the closeouts).

I did not bring the foil because I want to mix things up (and I knew the swell had hit) - always a good time on the Greedy Beaver!

Thursday Evening Surf - 5/9/2019

We hit the surf again this afternoon because we've got an event to attend tomorrow night.  The swell picked up a bit, but the really high tide made it difficult to pick up a lot of waves on the foil.  Marlon on the other hand was having a blast!

I caught some good ones, but I felt off today (I didn't get much sleep last night).  I was batting 50 again.  It was still good to get in the water!

Latest Foiling - Sunday 5/5/19 and Wednesday 5/8/19

I think these last two sessions marked another milestone for me.  This past Sunday, I was going to setup the Gamma front wing.  I thought I read somewhere that the surf was going to be bigger and I wanted to test out a smaller wing.

Well I checked out the report one last time before going out and decided to use the old reliable (and boy was I glad that I did).  I ended up catching five waves on a short evening session (full tide at +1.9).  Infinity 76 front wing on the 61cm mast - everything was perfect!  Long rides traveling down the line on a wave that I would have been struggling on if I had the TJ Everyday under foot. 5 of 5 - batted 100%!

Then there was this afternoon.  Same setup, with the foil moved forward just a hair of center.  Today was the first time I really did not pay attention to my foot position - and weighting back and front was more intuitive.  I caught seven and only had one bad ride (and three outside all the way to the beach rides).  On the bad rides I knew something was off just by the feedback the board and foil were giving and instead of crashing, I just rounded up hard and slipped into the wave (instead of getting thrown around like during the past several months).  Fat kitty was hanging around, and so was the peacock (who is the real White Plains mascot???)

Marlon had the Wavestorm out again and was trying helicopter takeoffs (same as last Sunday also).  We could only spend an hour at the beach today but it was so worth it!  Today was a great foiling day!!!

Tuesday Errands - April 30

Marlon and I hit the surf again - this time I brought the foil.  Marlon brought the Wavestorm.  The swell was a hair smaller, but it was still challenging on the foil.  I caught some good lengthy rides - and I eat it on some wipeouts.  I am getting to the point where I know if I'm going to fly or if I'm going down in a blaze of glory - I can't remember when I was so stoked to see smaller, barely breaking waves...

Marlon caught a bunch - then he came over and was acting goofy - trying to blow bubble rings, accusing me of being a slow paddler, and just giggling for no reason.  I guess he likes surfing!

I am going to try out the smaller front wings - I'm starting to think the Slingshot FSurf Infinity 76 may be too big to catch fresh white water, or the steeper pitching waves (since I instantly breach after getting up despite the forward weight).

These pictures above are actually in reverse order...

After the short surf session, we hit Lowe's to buy more wood for the deck project.  Here's the truck pulling errand and surfmobile duty.

Duped - April 29

I thought the swell from yesterday (which was pretty darn good) was supposed to get bigger today.  I figured I should bring the Greedy Beaver.  Well - I got duped - it was smaller, choppier and less consistent than yesterday.  I should have brought the foil.  I did get some fun rides on the beaver - but the swell and the tide were not complimenting each other.

Marlon brought the Wavestorm and he was happy with that choice.

I don't want to give the impression that I'm complaining - any day spent in the water is a good one!  It's just I really really really don't like it when I bring equipment that is less than ideal ;)

Sunday Foiling/Surfing - April 28

The surf was absolutely perfect this evening - and Marlon and I both brought the wrong boards.  I brought the foilboard - which I had just finished cleaning up and putting deck pads on; the deck pads make getting foot placement simpler than using just wax - you can see instantly where your foot should go.  When I cleaned the wax off, I could see my heel dents so I pretty much just covered those spots.  I caught 7 tonight - the first 5 were flawless and lengthy rides.  The 6th ended in a breach and the 7th was short.  So this was the first time I batted over 50% (71%) - another milestone in this foiling journey.  I actually got to the point where I could feel when I had adequate front foot pressure and when I needed to apply more.  I'm crediting that to the fact that I haven't surfed conventionally this year (except that one time with the Greedy Beaver).  Retraining my brain and body to not "surf" on a wave, but instead to use the foil to move has been a long process - and there is so much more to learn still.

That said - the waves were so glassy and big today - head high and consistent - that I really should have been on the Greedy Beaver.  Marlon did bring out the 6'6" hybrid and he caught some fun ones, but he said it would have been even better if he had a longer board.

Hopefully this swell sticks around for a little bit (or not and I won't be tempted to break out the conventional equipment).

Friday Evening - April 26

Near repeat of Thursday - swell was the same but the wind was light and on shore.  I used the short mast again and I moved the foil back a notch.  That cut the breaching in half (but still had some - I'm crediting those with not enough front foot pressure - too much surfer in me...).  I took a couple of waves from the mid lineup all the way to the shoreline (with some margin for not grounding) so I would call today a move forward day for sure.

Marlon was rocking the Wavestorm again - he's been knee paddling it so when I glass his board, I'll reinforce the deck area so he can knee paddle that board (I really need to spend some time on that project).

And the resident peacock was large and in charge - it let me take a few pictures before running off to address another part of its territorial obligations.

Thursday Evening Surfing/Foiling - 25 April

Marlon and I went surfing this evening - swell was waist to shoulder high and pretty consistent.  The tide was supposed to be +0.7' so I opted for an 18" mast on the Slingshot to avoid any issues.  I had set up the foil to just forward of center on the 5'6" - I was able to foil on every wave I paddled for, but on about half, I would lighten up on my front foot pressure while trimming and I'd breach.  I caught 10 in the hour and a half we were out and as usual I was up on longer rides on half.

I'll pull the foil back a notch and I should be good with the front foot pressure I'm applying, and hopefully get to the point where most waves will be long rides.

Marlon had the Wavestorm out again and he was having fun.

I'll try to go back out again tomorrow - the current swell is supposed to be similar to today.  The days are starting to get longer now so after work sessions will get longer!!!