I hit the beach after work expecting fully developed ENE trades.
The wind was actually down... actually it had more north in it so there was good texture further out.
I did not feel like repeating yesterday, so I decided to run a couple of errands and then switch out the gear for a surfboard.
And the waves were on the smaller side, with chop and general chaos. So I figured the Asymmetric Boogie Fish would be good.
I caught probably seven waves in 45 minutes - and three of them were really good! Fully standing and driving into big carving turns... so much fun!!!
I'm glad I found surfing again - focusing on what is immediately in front of you and trying to make the most out of what you have... definitely helps to cope with life.
Oh - and if you are a veteran - Happy Veterans Day! I hope you did more service today and also got a few minutes to breath in the air, remember some friends you served with, and enjoyed living!
W:58/FD:129/PW:64/S:15
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