Monday, October 30, 2023

Evening Session - 10/30/2023

Pulled an evening session after work yesterday.  The waves had size, but it was all jumbled and even a bit hard to catch.  You'd sit in the lineup thinking you were in the right spot, but the wave you were lined up for would get fat and not even carry.


Marlon caught a nice one from the outside.

I had a few where I got some turns in but not much distance.


Still a fun session.

I could have used more paddling power (maybe the Seaside and Beyond).  I'm skipping Tuesday since we will be going to our annual "Don't Support Diabetes" campaign.

W:104/F:99/S:53

Dawn Patrol - 10/29/2023

Dawn patrolled yesterday morning.  This was looking to the SE - the other islands were really visible in the back lit clear sky.


There were waves coming in - pretty lully (but that lets me get out without burning too much battery), but when they were in, it was at least head high.  The tide was pretty high with the full moon - which dampened the waves a bit, but also made a quick paddle out.  Zero wind.

Marlon brought his longboard, but said it was a bit frustrating with the lull in sizeable waves and the weekend crowd. 


Same setup - but I did add a 0.25 degree negative shim to the 375P stabilizer.



The waves were coming in with a faster velocity and weren't standing up as readily (as they would on a lower tide).  I had to stay on the throttle longer to pick up rides.  This is a situation where the smaller hub would have worked better (where I could get to a higher top end speed to catch the wave and not have to use more energy).

The 0.25 degree shim worked well - made for faster/longer rides, easier pumping (since I retained more speed), and more response from the stabilizer (I was turning more today - funny how quickly you lose that feeling if you don't foil everyday - surfing uses different foot pressure applications).

I did lose it a few times - hard falls from high up and going fast - had to take a break after those falls.


I had a few rides where I rode to the inside where the waves were standing up - the walls did pop to at least head high (while I was up on foil) - these runs were back side (which is what I predominately do on weekend sessions to turn away from the large conglomeration of longboarders in the middle break) - if they were front side, I would have been tempted to tuck in....


Slightly lower wave count this session at 23 - largely because of the mid morning slump.  Still had a great series of rides!

W:104/F:99/S:52

Friday, October 27, 2023

Evening Session - 10/27/2023

Marlon and I got in an evening session.  There were still waves, but they were acting a bit funny - pulled back from breaking and fat.  The wind was a seabreeze, but not strong enough to mess with the surf.

Marlon did a bit of everything - in water photography, surfing the Seaside, and drone photography.


I brought the Foil Drive setup with the Spitfire 960.


Noel and Prayot were out.

I didn't want to pull a 3-hour session so I was a little heavy on the throttle.


And with all the surfing I've been doing lately, I wanted to ease back into foiling to get my footing (and not get hurt in the process).


I caught 21 waves (a few were double dips) in less than 2 hours.  This Foil Drive is a game changer - 

I didn't try to crank turns as hard as I could - this is where I was pulling back.  The waves weren't really optimized for that either.


I have errands to run in the morning, so I'll likely be on a midday session tomorrow.  Conditions are likely to be the same... Foil Drive!!! 

W:104/F:98/S:52

Thursday, October 26, 2023

Evening Session - 10/26/2023

Marlon and I got a session in yesterday evening to catch the peak of the current swell.  Epic conditions for the South Shore!!!


We brought the same boards and fins as the day before.


There were a lot of people in the water and they were mostly really proficient surfers (not Bobs).

We both managed to catch our share.

I felt like I was turning the Pigfish the best that I have ever to date.


I love surfing when the waves are good!

W:104/F:97/S:52

Wednesday, October 25, 2023

Evening Session - 10/25/2023

Marlon and I got in an evening session yesterday.  The initial look was meh... but Marlon took a second look with Kaylani and it was actually pretty good sized.  The wind was minimal and the tide was dropping - so we paddled out.


Marlon brought his Seaside and placed the Ono Convertibles in.  I brought the Pigfish and already had the Noriega Keel and Machado Quads on the board.


I caught some nice lines that stood up on the inside - perfect opportunity to gouge some turns and get close to the wall.  This board does that perfectly!


After a handful of great rides, the sun set (clouds on the horizon stopped the green flash from our perspective) and that finished off the session!

Today is supposed to be bigger!!!

W:104/F:97/S:51

Garage Works - 10/24/2023

I got Prayot's board sanded and sprayed yesterday.


Came out pretty good.  With the divynicell blocks, the back of the board has more weight (compared to the polyurethane blocks), but they are way stronger.


And here it is sprayed.


Nice and shiny


Using the peel ply definitely made this repair easier (less sanding).


With these two repairs done, it's time to start carving out No.33

Monday, October 23, 2023

Garage Works - 10/23/2023

This afternoon I got the ding repairs done on Tim's Greedy Beaver. 

The cluster of three small dings came out really nice.


The smashed in rail is structurally sound, but the cosmetics are lacking a bit.


Prayot's wing board got sanded and I opened up the boxes.


The router took a little too much out at this spot.


And then I got the fill coat on.


Tomorrow I'll sand down the excess fill coat, then get the spray coat on.

Both of these can go back to their owners tomorrow (so I can start the shaping on No.33)

Wing Foiling Session - 10/23/2023

Shhhh - I snuck in a session during a long lunch break today.  The forecast called for winds from the SW at wingable strength - finally a break in the wind drought!!!  I can't complain about not getting to wing - I've either shortboarded, prone foiled or prone Foil Drived for days on end with the clean conditions and decent late season surf - but my shoulders have been screaming for a rest.

I did not want to get skunked so I brought out the bigger stuff - No.25, the F One Eagle 1090 and the North Mode Pro 6.8 (I got this to race with - this is the inaugural run and a good test of the high end).  I set up the wing with a harness line and a leash line pigtail.

The canopy material (Matrix) is really interesting - it is supposed to hold its shape for a very long time.  It is supposed to resist stretching so the wing will retain its shape for much longer.  The N-weave 45 also made for a stiffer wing.  And for half the cost of an Ocean Rodeo Aeris AA Glide series wing...

The Mode Pro has a flatter profile - so it is indicative of a wing with forward drive and less low-end grunt (which North advertises).  I found this to be true - I couldn't find the top end, it just kept wanting to go.  The bottom end was not horrible, but at times I thought I could get up in these winds with the SW2 5.2 (but the SW2 does have a much smaller wind range).


Honestly - I was just glad to be able to get in a lunch session to test out a new piece of equipment!!!

Different pattern today - pretty much the mirror image of normal South Shore. 


The Mode Pro handled the stronger winds without any issues (as they advertise).  It is definitely bigger than the Reedin SW2 5.2 (see the picture below), and I really didn't have to pump the wing much.  When I did pump it, I did notice the wingtips would get caught on the surface - probably because I'm short and the wing is big (not nearly as big as the Nova Light Wind 8.0m I sold to Nick - but definitely had to manage the wing placement; interesting I didn't feel like I had to do that when I was borrowing Kalani's SW2 6.0)


When the wind blows in from the SW (or even the W) small waves roll in to the inside of Hickam Harbor.  If you look on my track, you can see the wiggles on the inside where I was riding the bumps.  On one instance, I'm pretty sure I got the foil out of the water and on to a power slide - I recovered and am now curious about doing this at will.

I made it out to Firsts.  Same conditions outside - sloppy, disorganized bumps coming through.


This wind was definitely doable with the SW2 5.2 - but it is confidence building that I could take it out in this much wind and not feel overpowered.  This is a great characteristic for a racing wing.


I did a lot of transitions to test the Mode Pro's handling.  On the conventional jibes, I needed to swing the wing over to the new tack, and I had to keep it higher than my head to clear the handles.  This wing seems to require more user input than the SW2 or the RS - but I'm sure I'll get used to it.  I did get a duck jibe in successfully also.

Then towards the end of the session I tried both toe-heel and heel-switch tacks.  I nailed three sets back to back.  Not sure if it was the wing, the front foil, or a combination of both, but all 6 back to back were high and dry - more confidence building attributes!


I finished up trying to see how fast I could get this wing.  Comparing my speed with the wind graph, I'm seeing I matched wind speed - which I've only been able to do with the Ocean Rodeo Glide A Series. 

I need to figure out how to better fold the wing to get it back in its bag.

As I write this, I do feel the lower tendon in my left elbow is a little sore.  I had this bad and to a worse degree when using the RS wings.  It was worse with those wings as they did not like being overpowered at all.  I get a little concerned when I use a wing with hard handles for this reason.  Maybe this soreness is due to getting used to the wing - only time will tell.

Now back to surfing -

W:104/F:97/S:50

Sunday, October 22, 2023

Dawn Patrol - 10/22/2023

Waves were a little smaller than yesterday (this is the tail end of the last swell - there is another moving in tomorrow and it will peak on Wednesday).  Tide was on the low side but rising.  Zero wind.


Same setup as yesterday - but moved the mast up a notch (and it felt much better - more balanced foot pressure).


With the smaller waves, the paddle out was pretty nonchalant.


It was hardly breaking on the outside, so I stayed pretty close the pack for the beginning of the session.  I'd pick off a wave and take it left to avoid getting mixed in with the surfers.

Eventually I ended up in front of the cabins.  I picked up and few there and then worked my way back to the first cabin.

Turns today were more carvy, despite having the HPS980.  It was more about the lean and tuck, than the front foil today.


The count is 33 waves in 2 hours - ridiculous number in times before the Foil Drive - now this is the normal.


This session was proof the HPS980 is still relevant (small waves session saver).

W:103/F:97/S:50

Saturday, October 21, 2023

Garage Works - 10/21/2023 (late)

Got in a second garage works session in the evening.

Marlon was sanding, sanding, sanding, with more sanding.


I cut out the carbon overlay panels for Prayot's Wing Board repair.


And I epoxied in the tracks.  I placed several layers of carbon on the bottom of the slots to make sure there is no deformation of the d-cell blocks.  I placed clear epoxy in the bottom the slots to saturate the carbon.  Then I placed the tracks in and filled the remaining voids with epoxied mixed with milled fibers and thiksil.


Nice and clean.  Tomorrow I'll get the carbon overlays placed (and maybe even apply the fill coat).


And I got glass and epoxy on the rear cluster of dings.


This cluster can be sanded and will not likely need another fill.

The big ding will get sanded and I'll place glass over it (tomorrow).

Garage Works - 10/21/2023 (Early)

And spent some time in the garage today trying to get the repairs done and out.

This is the latest set of dings that Tim put in the Greedy Beaver (collision with a SUP).


Not sure how this cluster happened...


Got the bad one filled.  I'll sand this tomorrow and place glass over it.


And I sanded the slot and the blocks for Prayot's foilboard mast track repair.  Fits like a glove!


And here it is epoxied into place.  This is a good, tight, clean installation.  I put a wrap of innegra around the block.  This is going to be bulletproof (but maybe not Prayot-proof).


And Marlon was sanding away.  Sand, sand, sand, and more sand....