Evening Session - 2/28/2022

I hit WPB in the late afternoon.  The tide was supposed to be on the low side - a low high tide at 0.8' dropping fast to bottom out at 0.3'.  I did not want to fret about bottom strikes, so I brought out the TJ Everyday.

The waves were on the weak side at maybe waist high on the rare set (thigh high and lower for the most part).

With this combo of factors, I brought the Firewire TJ Everyday out.

If I could only have one board - this would be it.  The Everyday turned crap waves into super fun performance surfing.  Sure it was still pretty much gliding and cruising, but maneuvering to stay in the pocket, manually controlling speed by hand dragging in the face, and getting in a hard 180 cranking turn when the opportunity arose - all make this one incredible board.

Glad to have gotten in another surfing session among all the foil missions!

Roland was the diehard foiler (even with the low dropping tide...)

W:10/F:20/S:9

Dawn Patrol - 2/27/2022

Marlon and I got to the beach a little earlier today than we have been - I had a time table to keep to get Noe and La over to music and sailing respectively.  There was leftover energy from the WNW still on tap this morning.  Quick draining tide and almost no wind made for really clean conditions - a big change from yesterday.

Marlon and I brought out the same gear as yesterday.  Post session Marlon said he got some really fun waves.

The waves over in front of the cabins really weren't breaking.  And up until the last half hour, every wave I caught ended up with a wipeout - incredibly frustrating.  I eventually told myself to calm down and focus on keeping the board closer to the water (to prevent the catastrophic breaches I was having).  My last four waves were back to normal for me - long rides with lots of hard carving turns.  I did move the mast forward a quarter inch so the back foot pressure issue from yesterday was resolved.  I'm attributing the blow ups from yesterday and today to the 7cm mast height difference.  The extra height allowed me to still ride high and have the tail buried sufficiently.  Going to the 68cm mast took that margin away, but I did not adjust my riding accordingly.

Now that I have identified this, any time there is wave energy and I can catch waves outside the shallows, I'll bolt on the 75cm mast.  I can be more aggressive on takeoffs and turns and not pop the tail out of the water.  Whenever the tide is lower and the wave energy is less than optimal, I'll use the 68cm mast.  These conditions are where the waves are small (thigh high and lower) and the tide is between +0.7' and +1.0' (above 1.2' I really don't worry about the bottom interactions). 

I'm glad I figured all that out, and that there is still purpose having the 75cm Project Cedrus mast (I thought with the 68cm mast I would be using the 75 way less).

W:10/F:20/S:8

Dawn Patrol - 2/26/2022

There is a large WNW pushing through right now and WPB was getting some wrap.  Marlon and I checked it last night and there was energy in the water.  I opted for the 4'8" prone with the Kujira 1095 on the new 68cm PC mast.  Marlon brought his Seaside set up as a straight twin.

There was still energy in the water.  In fact the first wave I caught was a two for one and the next wave was a triple dip.  But then the conditions slightly changed and the rides took a turn for the worse.

It seemed to turn choppier and with the short mast and wider spanned HA front foil, for whatever reason I was breaching a lot - like almost every wave.  I already know the adjustments - either use the longer mast when I use the higher aspect ratio foils, or bolt on a lower aspect ratio foil when using the shorter mast in choppy or turbulent water conditions.

To throw another variable into the mix, I think part of the problem was keeping the nose up.  With the shorter mast, it seems as if the center of lift of the board-rider-foil system is altered, and in this specific case I needed to move the mast slightly forward.  Unfortunately I've been using regular bolts instead of the wing screws and I had to live with the placement.

I caught up with Marlon after and he said he had some really fun drops and some great turns.  Successfully dawn patrol if you ask me!

W:10/F:19/S:8

68cm Project Cedrus Mast

I received this 68cm Project Cedrus mast in the mail yesterday.

I ordered the Axis adapter and the 2021 Takuma adapter to help reduce the amount of times I have to switch adapters when using the foils in different disciplines.  This Axis adapter looks way better than the one I got with the used 75cm mast (I might have to order another one).

This is only going to be used for prone foil surfing.  I ordered this 68cm mast so I could go out in lower tides.  It may not seem to be that much of a difference between the 75cm and this 68cm masts, but at a 0.7' tide I've been tapping the bottom where on the Armstrong 72cm mast I wouldn't.

And actually, the 75cm when setup is at 79/80cm.

Fully assembled, I measured the height from the extents (top of the mount plate to the bottom/invert of the fuselage and this 68cm mast turns into a 73cm assembled foil (which is 28.75").

I'm also thinking this will improve the effectiveness of my pumping (shorter stroke height should allow for faster/shallower pumping).  Using the 75 (79/80) cm setup I found I was having to ride way higher to get the foil to the optimum height below the surface (foils work best just under the surface which also reduces the drag of the mast), and that took some extra effort to get and maintain it there - often meaning I had to pump through a higher water column.  Again you may be thinking "you're only talking about 2.75"" - but everything makes a difference.

Looking forward to getting this bolted on and ridden hard!!!   

Wing Foiling Session - 2/23/2022

Today had the best winds in months!!!  I didn't trust the forecast entirely, so I rigged the same gear as yesterday (ORA5.0, Kujira 1095, 4'8" WFB, 85/89cm PC Mast) - perfect conditions!!!  My dad came out (he is on island visiting) and took a couple of videos - I took a frame grab and I'm the winger on the right, up against the tree.

This was probably the strongest winds I've had the 1095 out in - the great glide I've experienced while prone foiling this foil is still present while winging.  So much so that I was able to easily complete two toe-side to heel-side tacks on the in-bound runs, where normally I could get around, but I'd drop off foil and couldn't really call it a completed tack.  I'll keep practicing this and it should become second nature soon enough.

Lots of orange!  I still had a few time bands where I was sitting around waiting for a gust, but for the most part I was up on foil way more than not.

I was out from 2 to 3:30 - nice strong winds!!!  I did not get out to Firsts, but I was content with continuing to get to know my gear better.  This is especially true in regards to transitions on foil with the new board.

Jim, Brantly and another guy were out when I pulled up.  Another guy who has been showing up also came out and at the end of my session Bill and Harris rigged up.  Looks like they still got some good wind.

I hung out with my dad after my session.  We were sitting on the bench nearest the water watching planes takeoff and land.  I left the wing at the shower wall and my board on the picnic table next to the plumeria tree while we were waiting for La to get back from Art Nelson.

The guys thought I left my wing and had taken off.  I saw Jim walking my wing back to the parking lot, and Harris deflated it.  Harris even called my phone (which La had in the truck) and was saying I was MIA.  

The things that happen at Hickam!

W:10/F:18/S:8

Wing Foiling Session - 2/22/2022

The wind was blowing at my house and my phone started buzzing with texts from the other airheads - "there are whitecaps at Hickam".  When I pulled up to the parking lot at 3pm, there were whitecaps, but by the time I was launching it had "mysteriously" dropped out.

This board surprises me every time I take it out!

The number of red lines and the lack of blue lines when correlated to the speed chart are telling - I was stuck in no go mode for a long time.  When it was up, it was on - and when it was down, there was nothing to do but chill.

Again you can see the correlation between the wind graph and my speed chart (so cool)!

Nice peak speed!!! Although I think it was a misread - or maybe I was getting catapulted or something like that.

W:9/F:18/S:8

Dawn Patrol - 2/19/2022

It was smaller than yesterday - about half the size, and the tide was a little lower too.  If I had known it was going to be this small, I would have probably brought the M200 on the short GoFoil mast.

Jimmy came all the way out from Hawaii Kai, so I felt compelled to foil regardless of the apparent small sized waves.

I'm glad I paddled out - I got a couple of handfuls of ridable waves.  Scott was picking up everything.  Andrew was getting several.

My 68cm Project Cedrus mast should be here next week - I'll start using the Axis ART999 to prone then.  My goal with that front foil will be to effortlessly and do a 5 for 1.  The Kujira 1095 is really good - but there are a lot of things going on with this foil.  I think the ART999 will be more efficient because it is simpler in its form.

Not much on the horizon, but that's ok since my nephew (and sister, and my dad) will be in town - so the smaller surf will make learning to surf less intimidating.

W:8/F:18/S:8

Dawn Patrol - 2/18/2022

Went on the dawn patrol again.  Perfect conditions for prone surf foiling!!!  Belly to chest high on the sets (but mostly belly).  No wind so it was really glassy.  Tide was really high (but I still managed to tap the bottom...).

I brought the 1095 out - such a great front foil!  Had a handful of really long rides with multiple waves.

So much fun!!!

W:8/F:17/S:8

Wing Foiling Session - 2/17/2022

La and I went on a lunch date to celebrate our 21st Wedding Anniversary!!!  Greek food, donuts and time in her second garden (RBM), and I got to wing foil over at Hickam!!!  When I pulled up, Jim was packing up - he said there were too many holes in the wind.  Since I wasn't going to pick up La until past 5, I figured I'll just rig and get wet.  Same setup as yesterday.  I reset the front footstraps and took the rear one off for now (I'll learn to jump - just not now while the wind is marginal).

The wind filled in around 3:30 and except for a few deep lulls, it was enough to get up and go. You can see the lulls in the chart below (blue lines).  Harris showed up and he had a Slingshot Slingwing V3 6.5m wing in tow (still didn't get his 5.0 bladder resolved).  There was a lot of north in the wind - but we headed out to Firsts.  

After the lull on the outside, I checked the time and decided I should head in to not be late in picking up La.  I hit another lull to the west of the marina and had to wait that out before getting to make it back in.  The other thing you can see in these combined charts is the wind shift - early on there was more North, and at the end it had shifted more to the East.

I've said this before and I'll say it again - it is so cool when the speed graph corresponds directly with the wind speed graph.  Again - you can see the lulls clearly.

Another super fun session!!!  The forecasts are all calling for a drop in wind activity through next Tuesday - that's a good thing since my sister and her family and our dad will be out here for the next week starting Saturday evening.

W:8/F:16/S:8

Wet Sanding Fixes Everything

I had hit reef a few times over the past several sessions.  It wasn't enough for me to feel like I needed to correct any of the damage, but this morning I did manage to find a high point on the seafloor and there was some "crunching" noises involved.

I went ahead and broke out the 220-320-400 wet/dry sandpaper and got the scratches and crunches out.

I'm close to getting a 68cm Project Cedrus mast that I ordered a while back.  That size when all set up should be at 72cm - compared to the 75cm (so 79cm) I have been using.  That drop in size should reduce the bottom strikes I've been getting.  Although I must say the extra riding height does make foiling even more thrilling...

Dawn Patrol - 2/17/2022

I got up early this morning to get a quick session in.  It's La and my 21st Anniversary and I didn't want to be out of the house when she woke up (which I knew would be later because she wasn't able to get to bed early).

The forecasts called for the swell to be dropping off so I bolted on the Kujira 1095 - that was the perfect call and although not as surfy (able to do hard carving turns) as the 1210, it still does make hard turns and it glides for days.  I can ride a wave and not need to pump at all.

I left my leash in the garage so I didn't want to press my luck (the board did get away from me once - I'm going to stick my second leash in the trunk and not have to go through this again).

Tim was out getting a session before work.  He is back on the 232 tail and is having an easier time with the 925 front foil.

Rick was also out - if you look close enough you can see him riding this wave.

I did get home before La woke up ;)

W:7/F:16/S:8

Wing Foiling Session - 2/16/2022

And as luck would have it, there was a small window where the wind picked up enough for me to wing.  I got to the parking lot at Hickam by 1:30 and rigged up and in the water by 2.

When I drove up, the wind was actually dead.  But recently I've been paying more attention to the Surfline forecast and it has been better than the rest at predicting wind.  They said 3pm it should be 17mph.  I went ahead and bolted on the Kujira 1210 that I used in the dawn patrol since the wind was questionable, especially since I had the 4'8" Wing Board (I wanted to dial in the footstrap positions).

When I got into the water, I could see the wind starting to fill in and then everything in the universe was right.

This board is magic and despite it's propensity to sink if I don't have forward momentum, it gets off the water faster than any board I've ever used (flat tail and square rails).  After a few runs to get my bearings and to knock out some transitions, I went ahead and made my way out to Firsts (which I haven't actually done in quite some time).  

The wind was stronger out there so I only went down three times in 45 minutes.  I was able to ride several waves and I tacked and jibed without issue.  So much fun!!!

I went back in and adjusted the footstraps (pulled them back a notch) and headed back out to make sure they were set.  I had a couple more runs and called it good.

One of the other things I did this session was switch out the wing leash.  I had the Dakine bodyboarding one on previously, but put on the second Kaohi 5' double coil.  I do like these better.  If they get twisted, all you have to do is stretch it out and it resets.  It also gets around the harness line easier also.

These little strings are part of the bladder replacement repair job I got done at Airtime Kites.  The past two sessions were perfect and having a fully inflated wing that you can count on is a huge part of that!

W:7/F:15/S:8

Dawn Patrol - 2/16/2022

Dawn patrolled with Marlon.  He brought out his new Seaside and set it up as a straight twin.  I thought the waves were still going to be a bit on the bigger side, so I kept the Kujira 1210 on deck.

The tide was pretty full.  There was a weird turbulence in the water and the wind was kinda trying to come up.

The waves were chest high on the sets.  I was taking off on waves I would have been using a short board on (and they were so awesome to make!!!).  Lots of long rides, but I kept riding towards Fenceline and had to thread through some newbies on the inside.

Marlon said he caught some fun ones and is starting to crank the turns on the 5'2".

Dawn patrolling during the week is awesome!!!

W:6/F:15/S:8

Evening Session - 2/15/2022

Surf came up today!  Chest high on the sets and they were marching in pretty consistently.  The wind was dead when I drove up at 4pm (no chance of winging).  And the tide was just high enough so I wasn't too hesitant to foil closer to shore.

The waves were big enough that I should have really been surfing - would have been a great day for the Firewire Sunday - but my surfing is driven by the tide (and today was incredible on foil - no regrets).

I set up the 4'8" prone foiling board with the 75cm Project Cedrus mast with the Takuma Kujira 1210.  This is definitely the best surfing front foil I've used to date.  I got several really long, top to bottom carving waves that stretched from Fenceline all the way to the First Cabin - then catch the next wave and reverse.  SO MUCH FUN!!!

Perfect settings from the past sessions.

W:6/F:14/S:8

The Anointment of the Sunday on a Monday

The kids got home soon after I did and they both decided to come to WPB with me to anoint the Firewire Sunday.  The waves were forecasted to be 2-3', with a low high tide (at 0.9').  Light winds (but it was an onshore flow).

Originally I had the K2 keels on, but ultimately I decided on using the EN fins for this first run.  Uuuuhhhhhh - the ENs were perfect!!! 

The first few rides were short - I was trying to figure out where the sweet spot was so the takeoffs were slightly late.  Once I figured out to come back so my chin was in line with the top deck logo, I was able to takeoff really early and get some really long rides.  The juicy waves were far and few between - but on those rides I could tell this is going to be an incredibly fun board!!!

This fin setup is really good.  It'll make it hard to switch out to other setups - but I'll force myself to do so.

Marlon also brought the Seaside out - but he needed just a little more energy.

I'm glad I got this board!  It'll be a fun addition to the current lineup!  Now that it has been properly anointed, it's time to slap on some stickers!

W:6/F:13/S:8

Wing Foiling Session - 2/13/2022

And as forecasted, the wind did pick up to wingable levels - but just barely.  I brought out the NWFB so I could get the 1095 positioned and the footstraps adjusted (and I also didn't think there was enough wind for the 4'8" wing board - although that's debatable with the flat tail/square rails - but I also needed to limit the variables).  I also brought out the newly repaired Ocean Rodeo A Series Glide 5.0.

I got the footstraps adjusted (moved everything 1 notch back - same indications I was getting from the last session).  This spot is also pretty good for the 1095 - with all the adjusting I'm constantly doing, I'm realizing that for winging the mast position is not ultra critical like it is in prone foil surfing - just get it close and it's all good.

The wind was strong/weak enough that I was really riding the gusts.  The repaired wing isn't just replaced bladders - the new bladders are thicker, has a backer near the valves and ends, and they also added taped on pull strings - all of these improvements so the bladder stays fixed in place more so than the stock version.  The repair was not cheap, but I believe I paid for more reliability and that is piece of mind in an already dangerous activity.

You can see the wind had a more northerly swing to it today.

Like I said earlier - riding the peaks today.  Good practice for getting up in low wind with a high aspect front foil (I really should use the 4'8" next time to see what the difference is - and if it is what I think it is, I'll likely be shaping another bigger wing board soon - with square rails and a straight tail).

Jim was out with a Blue Planet Alien 6.0m wing.  He seemed to be up more than I was - but was further down wind.

Harris was there with his family - and when he was pumping up, his strut bladder blew.  He showed us the bladder and it was right where most of the blown spots I've seen were - right on the seam along the head.

Fun to be winging again!!!

W:6/F:13/S:7

Late Dawn Patrol - 2/13/2022

We got up a little later than normal - and to answer the question "should we go, or go back to sleep?", Marlon launched the drone to check out the surf.  It was waist high and the crowd was manageable so off we went.

I brought the Viking because I didn't want to chance having brought the wrong gear.  Marlon brought his new Seaside and his longboard.

I was able to watch him catch his first wave on the board - so it has been properly anointed.  I caught a bunch of waves, but as time went on, it seemed like the wave energy was fading.

The combo lock we use to secure the truck key got stuck.  We were delayed a hair while we waited for the lifeguards to open the shack.  Fun day for longboarding (but it wouldn't have been the day to anoint the Sunday, even though it is Sunday.)

W:5/F:13/S:7