Thursday, December 22, 2022

Evening Session - 12/21/2022

Marlon and I did an evening surf session yesterday.  Waves were waist high, the tide was low and the wind was still coming in from the west (but not strong enough to wing).

I opted for the Viking to negate any small surf issues (and kill the crowd factor).  For a board this long, you'd think it is just for going straight - but that is quite the contrary.  If there is some height to a wave and it is standing up, I love to move to the back of the board - the thinned out profile of the back rail really bites into the wave and (besides the extra swing weight) this board surfs way shorter than it is.  That coupled with its ability to paddle into bumps well before they are breaking waves makes this board magic!


I have really grown to like the True Ames Greenough High Speed Volan fin on this board.  It wasn't instant affinity like the Futures Randy Rarrick Black Tip fin I have on the TJ Everyday, but more a gradual appreciation for what this fin can do.


The monk seal was back - but had moved over to the beach in front of the MWR rental shack.


There were still some good sized waves coming in from the wind event if you were patient.  I caught multiple fun rides.  Kalani was out on his foil.  I saw him catch a few triples.  Roland was out also, but he was under the weather (and probably should rest to shake the bug that he has).


La was using the truck this evening so we took the other surf mobile out.  Fun session!


W:127/F:99/S:43

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