Saturday, February 15, 2020

Evening Session on a Rising Swell - 2/15/2020

Marlon went out with some friends earlier in the day, so it was just me on the evening session.  I purposely waited so the crowd would die down.  The front runners of a rising swell starting hitting - so I opted for the TJ Everyday.  Mixing surfing into the constant foiling is just as good as mixing up the different foils - all this change keeps you from getting too comfortable on just one thing and it helps with balance and the ability to react quickly in all the endeavors.


Through this picture, I can feel the projection... I love going fast and leaning into a large radius carve!



The swell was head high on the big sets - it's only February and we gotten some good rounds of southern hemisphere energy - I am not complaining!  Most of the waves were waist to chest high - but again it's the dead of winter.  The tide was really low and was not going to get above 0.5' while there was daylight - another reason I opted for the conventional surfboard.  There was a bit more wind today - and it actually made it a bit hard to stay on the waves if I went right (wind would blow straight under the nose of the board).


I caught several bombs - it felt really good taking the drop!  Really fun session - and I'm glad I left the foil at home!  If the swell keeps filling in, I'll bring the Greedy Beaver out tomorrow (with the Solus center fin - to loosen up the tail).



Used the bed to take the board to the beach, and the roof racks to go home.  I felt more at ease with the board on top and tied down - something to think about.  Really fun session!!!!

Friday, February 14, 2020

Friday Evening Session - 2/14/2020

Marlon got a break from being grounded - so I brought him out to the beach.  The Easterly Trades were up - enough to put a bunch of texture on the water.  The tide was rising again - was out from 0.5' to 1.0'.  And the swell was between thigh to waist high.


Marlon was out pretty quick and everytime I looked over, he was up and riding.  I brought out the 4'10" and the Iwa.  I initially set it where I had the Armstrong CF1600.  It worked, but it didn't feel like the lift was smooth or automatic.  I caught three waves (which were long and fun - maneuvering around the unbroken portions of the waves to just glide along) and went in to change the foil position.


I pulled the foil forward a bit and paddled back out.  The adjustment made a ton of difference and the lift was better behaved and gliding was automatic.  One more day riding this foil position to make sure this is an optimum point.


I caught four more and it was time to call it a session.  Tomorrow there is supposed to be a bump up in the wave height...

Thursday, February 13, 2020

Evening Session - 2/13/2020

Got home today from work and headed to the beach - been working late all this week so I needed to paddle around.  The tide was a rising high - I got in at 0.5' and got out at 0.9'.  The swell was thigh high with occasional belly high sets.  There was some wind, but not enough to blow out the surf.


I had the 5'2" and the Maliko 200 out again - the foil setting is perfect so I'll mark this position and start surfing a different combo next time.


I got three really fun rides right off the bat.  All glide and not much pumping - magic of the Maliko.  But after a couple more, the swell seemed to double up and I did not want to take off on a wave that was too steep (while using the Maliko).  I figured I had my fair share and took one last one in.  Hopefully I can do it all again tomorrow!

Sunday, February 9, 2020

Stealth Mission (Dawn Patrol) - 2/9/2020

In an effort to get around the issues from yesterday (CROWD), Marlon and I hit the surf really early today.  It was so early when we got there that the full moon was still out (so technically this was a stealth mission).


The thermometer on the Odyssey said it was 54F outside - we think it was probably closer to 60F - but regardless it was COLD.  The waves were really small - smaller than yesterday and with the high tide, they were barely breaking.


Marlon got three pretty quickly and then went it.  It took me a lot longer to get my three - I had the 5'2" out again and the Maliko 200.



Last night I adjusted the foil back further - almost to the end and it seemed to be better in the surf (less tendency to want to lift right away as I was paddling for a wave - easier to control while riding).  I would have had an easier time catching more waves if I brought out the 5'6" - but getting the foil position dialed was worth the extra paddling.




It is days like this morning that make me think I need a Firewire Viking in my life...


Saturday, February 8, 2020

Dawn Patrol - 2/8/2020

Marlon and I hit it this morning - it was cold - 61F air temp.



It was tiny - maybe knee-thigh high on the sets, and it was crowded.  When it gets like this, the takeoff points consolidate and everyone starts tripping all over each other.



I caught three (Marlon might have caught more) then we called it.  There were some "visitors" that were hogging the waves - I don't like surfing around people like that - BLAH.


I used the Maliko 200 on the 5'2".  I had the foil mounted back about 3/4" from where I had the Iwa.  It felt like it had a tad too much lift at takeoff and it didn't want to set a line.  I should have taken out the 5'6" for the paddling power, but I want to get the foil position dialed in with this combo.  If I go out tomorrow, it'll be even earlier to get a jump on the crowd.

Foiling Friday Evening Session - 2/7/2020

I went for an evening session yesterday just to wash the week off.  It was small, crowded and a low tide.  The wind was from the North so it cold (but clean - did I mention it was small...).  I brought out the same rig I've been using lately - 5'2" Foilboard and the Iwa on the 24.5"+3" Mast.  Despite the shallowness of the tide, I didn't hit the bottom this session.


I did catch three, but the wave energy would back down and I'd have to pump through the flats to catch the reform - I'm not complaining because I wouldn't have been able to do that on a longboard.  I'll take what I can get - winter on the south shore...

Some Late Posts - Hawking

The next few posts are going to be catch ups.

Marlon and I had a tiny bit of spare time Thursday after I picked him up from class.  We made a quick trip up to Wahiawa to check out the Town and Country Surfboard Factory.




I really took a fancy to the asymmetric boards and the retro twins that Glenn Pang shapes.



In fact, we saw the twins down in the shops also (and they looked just as svelte... ooooohhhhhhh so nice...



The twin (The Saint model) T&C at Pearlridge.  I feel the need to mow some foam coming on soon...

Sunday, February 2, 2020

Dawn Patrol - 2/2/2020

Marlon and I hit the beach again this morning.



The size came down a notch, but it was cleaner than yesterday.  The tide was lower at 1.0'.  We stayed out for a couple of hours and we really didn't have to wait for waves.




Marlon was working on his helicopter takeoffs - he nailed three!


All trimmed up and running at a good clip along a breaking wall - this is foiling bliss!





These blurry pictures don't capture the speed that foiling occurs at - way faster than surfboards because there is way less friction to overcome.  


I was happy to just catch waves and ride them all the way back to the beach (not all the way - just to where the water was still deep enough to not ground the foil).  I had my fill of waves after a couple of hours - we had it best early on when the crowd was less of a factor - dawn patrols rule!

Saturday, February 1, 2020

Logo Sticker

I found a friend that had a cut vinyl sticker making machine and I asked her to make a run of logo stickers.


Here's one on the surf mobile


And here's another on our cooler.  I'll take pictures in the sunlight tomorrow.

Cleaning Things Up

These Marine Grip Strips are a one and done application - get it right the first time or you'll have to replace them when the corners start peeling up.


Use a masking tape line to get your alignment.


All better!


Whatelse Can It Carry?

A BIC sailboat.


Dawn Patrol - 2/1/2020

Some days are definitely better than others - this one was awesome from the get go.  Marlon and I hit the dawn patrol - there was some wind so the surface had a texture to it - minor, not super chop or anything like that.  The tide was around 1.2' on the morning high tide.  And lastly the swell... ah yes - the swell - just a hair bigger than yesterday but when we first got out it was pretty darn good.


With the lower tide, I brought out the 5'2" and the Iwa (on the 24.5" + 3" mast).  Now for the good part - Marlon and I took off on the same wave and while I was cruising on the foil, he was pulling a helicopter.  The shortly after that, Marlon was watching while I took off on an unbroken peaking wave and dropped along the breaking section - the foil was almost pegged (wings just under the surface), and I was standing straight up in perfect trim and the wave was still taller than I was!  Too bad we didn't have the Go Pros out...


I had a bunch of long rides on running walls, and Marlon had some really cool takeoffs - but then the waves kinda shutdown.  Take it when you can get it (and it is February - the south shore is supposed to be flat yet were getting epic rides!)!!!  Oh and to make a good day better, this gal was running around ;)