Thursday, September 19, 2019

Thursday Evening Foiling - 19 September

Late evening session - Marlon on his longboard and me on the 5'2" prone foil board and the Slingshot Infinity 76.


The waves were waist to chest high, the wind was on the low side (still a little texture on the surface), and the tide was a small high tide at 1.0' - the primary reason I had the Slingshot out - 24" mast.

It took a while for me to get my bearings on this foil again - I caught several, but it wasn't until the end of the session where I was able to ride a wave all the way from the main break in the middle all the way back to the beach.  This is definitely a fun foil once you get it dialed in.

Switching from the Gamma to the Iwa to the Infinity 76, makes riding challenging as all of these ride differently.  That said, what I give up on instantaneous gratification, I gain in a deeper understanding of flying the different foils (so if I get a chance to try out other foils, I can do it faster than if all I surfed was a single foil).

Marlon did a cannonball launch dismount and loved it.  4' above the back of the wave as it passed.

Wednesday, September 18, 2019

Catch Up Post - 16 September

Marlon and I hit the evening surf - 2-3' swell (waist to chest high), light trades (side chop - textured surface), and a 1.7' tide.  I decided to try something different.  I brought the 5'2" and the SLingshot Gamma with the 24" mast.


I caught a bunch, but only on about a third of them did I fly the foil for any appreciable difference.  I brought this rig to see about being more stable on steeper takeoffs - it wasn't until near the end of the session where I was remembering how to takeoff on this shorter board.  I had to use my front hand like a third foot as I transitioned from prone to standing.  After I figured that out, things got better.  I also beached once and set the foil more forward in the tracks to get more lift - helped, but I still wasn't flying with ease.  Not sure how much the choppy conditions and constant rollers impacted the quality of the rides or the efficiency of the foil, but I think next time I'll set up the Infinity 76.


Marlon was getting rides all over the place - there is something to be said about having one board and sticking to it - but I can't help myself - if there is something to be learned, I'm there.  Even if it means feeling like a kook sometimes.

Sunday, September 15, 2019

Tide Driven - 14 September

Since I moved back to Oahu, I have avoided surfing in and around the midday sun.  I'm not a spring chicken anymore and I'd prefer not to have to deal with any health issues - so out of the sun it is for me.  Well - foiling has its requirements, particularly making sure the water is deep enough - which in turn has made me pay way more attention to when the high tides are.  Well - the high tide was just before 3pm yesterday.  I foiled and wore a long sleeved sun shirt and a hat.  I caught some long ones, but with the swell coming in above waist high, I ate it bad on some takeoffs - too much speed, too much lift and in the white water - cavitation and down I go.  Probably should have used a smaller front wing...


High +1.7', light trades, mixed up swell from the SE and SW.  Go Foil Iwa, 5'6" prone foil board.

Thursday, September 12, 2019

Solo Thursday Full Moon Session - 12 September

The moon is full for the next few days - that means really high tides, which means foiling without the fear of scraping the bottom.  Marlon was busy so I went on a solo mission.  The tide was high at +2.1', the wind was marginal but not enough to blow me around while up on foil, and the swell was waist high (maybe a little bigger on the sets) - perfect conditions for foiling!


I felt like I was ripping!  Got some nice hard turns in and even snugged up to a breaking wall - so much fun!  I noticed the longboarders fading off waves, that I would then pick up and ride all the way to the beach.  Where have these surf foils been all my life???...

I've had the foil in the same setting for the past several sessions now - dialed in for sure.  Just to mix things up again, I may have to start using the Slingshot again, or drop down to the 5'2" (or maybe both of those).

I'm a total convert now - I'm glad I didn't have a huge quiver of surfboards that I'd have to sell off now (and I will still cross train on the two boards that I do have in the active lineup - and I'll try to get the other two boards in the mix as well...).  Sheer perfection this thing is!



Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Hump Day Follies - 11 September

May the families of the victims of 9/11 be at peace - especially on this day.

Marlon and I hit some seriously small surf today.  Looks like he was working hard for each and every wave.


On the other hand - I was riding waves all the way to the beach!  Milking riding energy is so much easier with a foil.  I'm sure I would have faded off the waves today if I was on the longboard.  I think I'm pretty much at the second nature point - I was able to take pictures and video while riding the foil.  I made turns at will, swooped across long walls (albeit tiny), and got to turn off the back of the waves (the start of learning to pump back out).



There were a few other foilers - two on SUPs, and two on Armstrong 1600s.  The prone foiler on the Armstrong was doing a heck of a lot better than the SUPer with the same foil.  The other SUPer had a Signature (but I didn't find out which one).


Nice way to wash of the week so far!

Sunday, September 8, 2019

Midday Solo Mission - 8 September

Marlon was at music practice and the tide was at +2.1' - I couldn't help myself.  I pulled a solo mission in the middle of the day.  I usually don't surf in the middle of the day - sunburn, blown out surf and crowded parking lot are enough to keep me away.  The wind certainly was up - 15 to 25 mph - definitely made riding tough.  The wind did push me around when up on foil - I figured how to lean into it towards the end of the session to keep foiling (and not falling).


I caught 6 in 45 minutes (couldn't stay out too long - still had errands to run).  The first few I got blown off like I said earlier - the last 3 were long with a bunch of turns and zooming along the walls.  I love foiling!!!

Saturday Evening Shortboarding - 7 September

A lot windy (trades are back - finally), low tide (+0.5'), and a decent long period swell made for fun SHORTBOARD surfing on Saturday evening.


It was a hair crowded when we got there, but the group thinned out as time marched on.  My last three waves were pretty fun - head high walls that stayed open long enough to get a few good turns in.  Marlon had several good waves.

I opted to surf the Beaver mainly because of the low tide - the moon is just passing waxing quarter - another week and we'll be back to dual high tides.  Funny thing that surfing has become cross-training for me.  Used to be that everything else was cross training for surfing... still - good times on the Greedy Beaver!

Monday, September 2, 2019

Sunday Garage Works

I took a break from the surf on Sunday in favor of BBQing and getting some other projects knocked out.  I got the prone foilboard templates cut out and sanded.


And then I proceeded to get the blank(s) templated and cut out.




Also went to our friendly neighborhood Lowes and grabbed a bunch of lumber to make some plant benches La has been asking for.  I'll also build a new shaping rack (to shape these short foil boards).

As I am writing this entry on Sunday, Marlon and I did go on a dawn patrol this morning - 1.7' tide with a chest high swell pushing in - good fun!!!  I had several long rides - one was tracking along with a wave standing up and just about to pitch a lip.  Another with banking turns back and forth between sections.  A couple of waves I popped up but my feet didn't feel like they were in the right place - I rode out the wave anyways and just compensated with weight shifts.  At the risk of sounding cocky - this is second nature now.  I even had a few green water takeoffs - steeper than I prefer, but too much fun!

Sunday, September 1, 2019

Saturday Foiling and Longboarding - 31 August

Marlon and I hit the evening surf - full tide and a lully swell were the conditions.  We had the GoPro out and managed to get a few pictures.



Catching waves is getting easier, and correcting foot placement mistakes and off balance takeoffs is starting to become second nature.  Banking turns off  oncoming sections is quickly becoming a favorite.  I got several rides all the way to the beach on waves I know would have been challenging to catch and ride on a longboard - foils take milking wave energy to a new level!

When you are dialed in, foiling is so much fun (but getting there has been one of the most frustrating rides - this activity also seems to randomly humble you by making you look and feel like a total kook).


Marlon had a bunch a fun rides as usual.



Another fun evening surf session

Thursday, August 29, 2019

Perfect Evening for Foiling - August 29

I took the Noi Matter plate mount off because I didn't have time to get it tweaked (I wanted to go foiling).  I mounted the Iwa forward of the Slingshot Infinity 76 mark - and this thing rode so well.  The swell was a little bigger than yesterday and the tide was also a little higher (probably +1.6' and dropping while we were out).  Just about every wave I caught resulted in really long rides, with cutbacks and pumping to get across flat spots.  I even pumped out on one of two waves where I rode out the back of the wave.  I could not do anything wrong this session.



The foil was mounted forward of the Infinity 76 mark (center of the mast).  Definitely the best day of foiling so far!!!


Did not touch bottom today either.  You can't ask for better conditions than what was out there today!

Marlon took the GoPro out - once he sorts through the pictures he has, then we'll post some of the cool pictures.

Wednesday Evening Surfcapades - August 28

I've been back in Jacksonville, Florida visiting my parents, Auntie, sister, and cousin.  I just got back yesterday and to fight the urge to go to sleep (east coast time), Marlon asked to go surfing (and La thought it would be good for me to go and wash off the travel).  I had the Go Foil Iwa and the 5'6" prone foil board - had several long rides and even popped out the back of a few.  I did hit bottom a few times despite the really high tide (which turns out wasn't so high while we were out - dropped from a mid afternoon high of 2.5' down to just over 1' in the late afternoon).


Marlon was catching his fill of waves as he had not been out since our last session (about a week).

I did try out a new mounting plate - the Noir Matter Universal Mounting Plate - to try and make removing the foil for transport easier.  I am going to have to play with this mount a little bit - if you lock down all the base mount screws, you cannot slide on the pedestal plate (not enough clearance between the board and the base mount).





This thing does have potential, but perhaps the 5'6" deck around the track mounts aren't perfectly flat either (this is a rhetorical statement - it isn't perfectly flat).  Lots of potential - just got to get the base plate mounting positioning dialed in - perhaps a shim of some sort???).

Sunday, August 18, 2019

Skipped Saturday - Super Sunday - 18 August

Marlon and I hit the surf in the early evening.  Tide was just at 1.8' - back side of the full moon.  The wind backed of and the swell - well it was perfect for foiling!  Waist high waves that were less steep - breaking without pitching.


I had the Go Foil Iwa set to slightly back of the Slingshot infinity spot and it was perfect - I did not have to work to get the foil to lift and I only breached twice (out of 10 waves or so - that the breach happened after riding a fair bit, just bad foot placement).  I got several really long waves - with a few of them having multiple turns to stay in the power center of the waves.

Marlon was having a good time launching from his longboard (???).  From looking around, I was getting really long rides from waves that the longboarders couldn't stay on.  Hydrofoil surfing is here to stay!

It really doesn't get much better than days like today :)

Saturday, August 17, 2019

Friday Evening Surf - 16 August

The tide was high Friday evening - 2.1' and there was a waist high swell running with a slight side-on breeze.  Perfect conditions for the 5'6" prone foil board and the Go Foil Iwa on the 24.5" mast (with 3" track adaptor).  Marlon brought his longboard and Marlon's cousin Damion asked to come along so we brought the Wavestorm.

This was one of the few times that nearly every ride was long, stable and high.  I did have a couple of takeoffs where my foot position was off - but other than that this was a great foiling day.  I also started pumping differently.  Previously I was just using my feet like getting through a flat section - but that would only work sometimes.  This session I started swinging my arms and the lift was more progressive.  I even dropped out the back of a couple of waves and was able to point back out (I think the board length became a factor in coming off foil).  I have to keep practicing this.

Marlon was practicing his helicopter takeoffs and getting some good rides.



Monday, August 12, 2019

La Goes Surfing on Her Own

Yup La went surfing without me - but with a friend from sailing.


She used the SUP.  Pinch me - I'm still contemplating what just happened...

Sunday, August 11, 2019

Two Fer Saturday - 10 August (And Sunday Evening also)

Dawn Patrol on Saturday - just to mix things up a little bit.  Tide was low at 0.3', very little wind and a decent swell pushing chest high energy.  To keep mixing things up (cross training) I took out the longboard.  Too much fun!!!  I started out on the outside, caught a few bombs and then spent the rest of the session riding all the inside waves (as most people were on the outside trying to compete for the bigger ones).

Then the twofer - La's nephew who recently moved into town has been asking to go surfing - so I got permission to skip out on one party and take him surfing.  The tide was a little on the higher side at 1.4' (by 6pm).  Marlon finally agreed to put a GoPro on the board he was surfing - we scraped the port side of the nose clean and got the camera mounted - now he is hooked!!!  Here are three of his favorites:




I went out on the foil - Slingshot Infinity 76 on the 24" mast.  I got a few good rides, but the whole first half I had trouble getting the foil to lift clear - the foil was almost pegged to the front... I did get some longer rides toward the end of the session to make up for it.

We also got an evening session in on Sunday.  There was a new, similar sized swell in - the waves were a hair bigger than yesterday, but I kept the same setup on the foil-board.  I got another few good ones under my belt - but had the same issue with getting the foil to lift.  I'm starting to wonder if the bashed up starboard front wingtip has something to do with this...

Marlon was better setup for this evening - he caught a bunch, but noted it was really crowded where he was.