Dawn Patrol - 9/26/2020

Marlon and I went on the dawn patrol this morning.  No wind at all (perfect for surfing).  The tide was low (so I had to paddle the foil upside down for a bit longer than normal).  The swell - yes the swell - nice rollers on the sets.  Head high perfection.  I brought the skinny 4'10" out and took the time to swap out the GL140 for the 180 (and moved the foil back in the tracks.  I did this because the forecast was calling for the waves to be smaller than yesterday - mistake since the swell was bigger. 

I paddled out with the GL180 and caught a few, but I was having trouble keeping the foil down (since the drops were epic - too steep for the 180).  I decided to ride one in and swap the front wings back out.  I got 446 feet on the one I rode in.  I was making the drops once I paddled back out and had the GL140 on.  Epic rides - big drop followed by long lined up walls that I would swoop up and down the whole face - my watch said I got to 13.5mph.  I saw Marlon take off on an overhead wave - this morning was perfect!!!