It was NOT chest high. More like chest LIE! Belly high on the rare sets - mostly waist. It was relatively calm wind wise, and the tide was high. Lucky I brought the skinny 4'10" with the GL180 and No.9 - same setup as last time.
I looked over several times and got to see Marlon riding plenty of waves. I caught some really good ones - one I got I was just doing turns back and forth. On another I rode the wave backside for a long while, pumped off the back, did a huge circle, picked up another wave and almost repeated (but my right quadricep started to burn so I pulled off). No.9 seems to be a winner!!!
Since the waves were smaller and less consistent, the takeoff lanes were crowded. And there were a bunch of wave hogs - so unfortunately I left feeling less stoked and more upset. I hate it when I get like that. There were also a bunch of teens who were riding without leashes... pretty selfish and it'll be unfortunate if someone gets hurt. Ughhhhh - going to the beach is supposed to make me feel better.
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