I had 5 really long rides from 274 feet to over 400, and I got as fast as 13.8 mph (although I'm starting to question the accuracy of the Garmin - I recall my longest wave being more towards the front half of the session).
I would swoop and glide and could make really hard directional changes. On one wave my leash was caught in between my front foot toes and I was coming down a steep takeoff - I couldn't clear the leash so I just rode through the wave that way. The leash made me lock my feet back a hair farther than I normally have it and the balance felt like a dynamic top - riding a pinhead but well. I went right and just kept swooping around to line up on the meaty parts of the wave. I was looking at head high walls while I was pretty high up on the shorter Go Foil mast. And with the sunset, I think this was one of my best sessions to date - having #2 bolted did help.
Mahalo to the Tasman Sea for sending us this swell!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment