And knowing La wanted to sleep in late for Mother's Day - and that we always get blessed with a south swell on Mother's Day, Marlon and I did an early dawn patrol on this Mother's Day. He brought his longboard and the GoPro - I brought the wide 4'10" with the HS1420CS/chopped 300 stab/A+ 60 cm fuselage.
The swell was up - the waves were definitely bigger than yesterday. Marlon and I both paddled to the outside. I saw him catch a few really good ones before I caught my first.
I got on some fantastic rides - super long, super fast with a few hard cranking 180 switchback turns thrown in. Overhead on the takeoffs - head high walls all the way to the middle break. I should have actually bolted on the CF1200 - it was that good.
I caught one over 700' and decided to get back in so we wouldn't be late (getting home before La woke up). As we were leaving the crowd seemed to go into overdrive and the swell was backing down just a hair - the early bird gets the worm!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment